The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The least that the dinner-giver could do who may be intent on
restricting the product of the vine, out of respect for those whose
happiness it befits him to consider,--aye, for which he is directly
responsible during the entire period they remain under his roof,--would
be to apprise his guests on their invitation cards that his filet was
to be accompanied by water. Then any possible uncertainty would at once
become a certainty, and no one need be ensnared. Otherwise his dinner
must border too closely on the very questionable form of entertainment
tendered by the fox to the stork. "Let no man," says an old writer
in "Blackwood's," "who has been so unfortunate as to be accustomed
to drink water be afraid all at once to begin to drink wine. Let him
without fear or trembling boldly fill a bumper to his most gracious
majesty the king--then the Duke of Clarence and the navy--then
Wellington and the army. These three bumpers will have made him a new
man."
The fact that the host may not be a wine-drinker himself is no reason
why he should select a dinner-party as the field for enforcing his
views on hydropathy. And if from sentiment or through physical reasons
he prefer water, no one assuredly will question his right to abstain
from vinous beverages. There was an old gentleman, it is related, who
was fond of entertaining his friends, and who gave them wine of the
very best. He himself would drink with them, but only from a particular
decanter which was placed before him. An inquisitive neighbour at his
table contrived to help himself from the same bottle, and discovered
that, under a colourable imitation of sherry, his host was drinking
cold tea. He was a total abstainer from principle, but he was too
courteous a gentleman to flaunt his conviction in the face of his
guests or to reflect upon the weakness of his friends by confessing
himself superior to them.
Above all things, an invitation to dine should convey on its face
the spirit of a refined, broad-minded hospitality and an assurance
of perfect creature comforts, embodying in the fullest measure the
sentiment expressed by Châtillon-Plessis, "_Se soigner en buvant
d'excellents vins et en mangeant d'excellents mets, voilà la bonne,
la vraie médication!_" (To care for one's self by drinking excellent
wines and by eating excellent dishes,--this is the proper, the true
medication.) In all instances where the entertainer may be opposed
to serving wine, it were better to dispense with the dinner and
substitute a tea or a reading in its stead. A wineless dinner is
justifiable only where every guest is a professed teetotaler and has
become inured to Oolong and sparkling waters.
An editorial in the London "Spectator" deals summarily with such
alleged entertainers, terming them "would-be hosts."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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