The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"What!" [exclaims the writer] "shall a man be invited to a
feast? shall he don his white tie with care and take his
way through the inclement weather to his friend's home,
determined, though weary and jaded with his daily toil, to
shine at his best, and repay with the blithest company his
friend's entertainment? and shall he be offered lemonade to
drink? It is enough to curdle the milk of human kindness in
his breast forever. Or iced water? Why, it would throw a chill
upon the warmest good will, and freeze the speech even upon
the lips of a lover. The man is neither a wine-bibber nor a
sot. But he is accustomed to drink his glass of wine, even as
he is accustomed to eat his dinner, and one is as necessary to
him as the other. Well, we do not imagine that he dines with
him twice."
The Sunday two- or three-o'clock dinner is a barbarism which calls
loudly for suppression--a custom that has no justifiable motive,
inasmuch as the only pretence for its existence is of questionable
benefit to the servants, who are obliged to share equally the penalty
visited upon every one by whom it is tolerated. As well establish a
weekly custom of a Saturday banquet at midnight in order to allow
the cook a full afternoon for visiting. For what are the inevitable
results? Accustomed to the dinner in the evening and the luncheon at
noon, for which the machinery of digestion is set in perfect accord,
the stomach is called upon to fast on the day devoted to rest until
long after the period for the performance of its regular offices--to
be surfeited with excessive ingestion at a time when appetite is
ravenous and the secretory organs are unable to perform their customary
functions. Gluttony and subsequent lethargy are a necessary consequent,
followed by a disturbed state of the digestion perhaps for days
afterwards. The pathological deduction of irregular eating is a simple
one. The stomach, having supplied its secretions at the accustomed
time, waits but a brief period before it allows such secretions to be
absorbed when deprived of the aliments that aid in the production of
fresh supplies. After a few such experiences the secretions diminish in
amount and in activity, even when food is introduced in the digestive
tract, and stomachic disturbance is an inevitable sequence. It will
thus be manifest that the Sunday-afternoon dinner and late Sunday
supper become the greatest of all invitations to gastric disorders, and
that the master and mistress of the well-regulated household should
firmly resent this almost universal imposition. No one knows better
than the physician the serious ailments caused by Sunday engorgement
and irregular eating. And yet no one in this respect remains more
passive to his own welfare or that of his patients.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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