The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"Scarcely any bishop," says Sydney Smith, "is sufficiently a man of the
world to deal with fanatics. The way is not to reason with them, but to
ask them to dinner. They are armed against logic and remonstrance, but
they are puzzled in a labyrinth of wines, disarmed by facilities and
concessions, introduced to a new world, and come away thinking more of
hot and cold and dry and sweet than of Newman, Keble, and Pusey."
A number of years ago, when long tables were in vogue at the great
hostelries at Saratoga, Bishop Onderdonk of New York was among the
guests. The bishop, in accordance with his station, was seated at the
head of the table, where the attentive head waiter had just placed his
bottle of hotel "Pontet-Canet." Among the other clerical guests was a
Connecticut divine and teetotaler who had come to test the restorative
virtues of Congress water, so delicious when drunk at the fountainhead
in the morning.
"Ah!" said the cynical dominie to a ministerial vis-à-vis, as he
frowned over his Oolong and the portly prelate beamed over his
Bordeaux, "he wants to prove his apostolic descent by showing that if
he drink of any deadly thing it shall not hurt him."
Later, when his Right Reverence was informed of the remark, he
observed, quoting Ecclesiasticus as his would-be detractor had quoted
St. Mark, "'Wine measurably drunk and in season bringeth gladness of
the heart and cheerfulness of the mind,' and as a churchman it were
heretical for me to take exception to so orthodox a precept."
The minister whose knowledge of gastronomy is far exceeded by his
zeal in "reforming," notably in an attempted extermination of all
joyous fluids, is far more prevalent in the United States than abroad.
While no one will object to his denunciation of "King Rum" or the
"Wine-cup,"--though rum is but little used as a beverage, and wine
is supposed to be consumed in glasses at the dinner-table,--one must
nevertheless deplore the inconsistency which would annihilate all
alcoholic fluids and permit the grossest heterodoxness of diet to pass
unscathed. Not undeserved, perchance, are the lines addressed to this
class of the clergy by a Western versifier:
"He preached 'gainst whisky, rum, and gin,
All use of liquor he'd decry;
He said that drinking was a sin--
But eat the toughest kind of pie.
"He said there was no greater vice
Than that which made of man a sot--
But took not water without ice,
And gorged himself on biscuit hot.
"He flouted the advice of Paul
To drink wine for the stomach's sake--
But give him dumpling in a ball,
And any quantity he'd take.
"Tobacco in each form he spurned,
Its soothing virtues he denied;
For him no soft Havana burned--
But he would eat a beefsteak fried.
"Jaundiced he lived, and died of spleen,
And some kept green his memory then--
Called him 'reformer,' who had been
The most intemperate of men."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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