The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
For it was at this period that the great ravagers of the world, who
were to carry the name and arms of Rome into distant lands, brought
their cooks with them, who vied with one another in contributing
the most appetising dishes of various countries. It was then when
Antony, intoxicated with the spoils of conquest and more than usually
pleased with the artist of his kitchen, sent for him at the dessert
and presented him with a city of thirty-five thousand inhabitants--an
example followed in a minor way by Henry VIII of England, who rewarded
his cook for having composed a pudding of especial merit by the gift of
a manor. It was then that the Sybarites bestowed public recompense and
marks of distinction upon those who gave the most magnificent banquets,
and especially upon those who invented new dishes.[2] It was then that
the practised epicure professed to distinguish by the taste from what
locality of Italy a wild boar had been procured, or whether a pike had
been caught in the lower or upper Tiber. Thus Horace, in one of the
"Satires":
"But say by what Discernment are you taught
To know that this voracious Pike was caught
Where the full River's lenient Waters glide,
Or where the Bridges break the rapid Tide:
In the mid-Ocean, or where Tiber pays
With broader Course his Tribute to the Seas."[3]
It was then that the rich Romans had at their villas magnificent
_piscinæ_ filled with fresh- and salt-water fishes that might be netted
at a moment's notice to set before their guests. In his ode "On the
Prevailing Luxury," the Venusian bard also alludes to these _vivaria_
and the inordinate fondness for fish of the Romans:
"Soon regal piles each rood of land
Will from the farmer's ploughshare take,
Soon ponds be seen on every hand
More spacious than the Lucrine lake."[4]
The mansions of the wealthy were likewise provided with splendid
aviaries filled with thrushes that were fed with millet and crushed
figs mixed with wheaten flour. Cygnets and snow-white geese were held
in great repute, and when fattened upon green figs their livers were
highly prized.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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