The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Unfortunately, the menu itself has been lost, and the memory of our
clerical informant has retained only a portion of the carte, which we
have transcribed from the memoranda he has contributed. Was there a
_chapon à la Toulouse_ or _noix de veau à la Soubise_ for the _relevé_;
did lamb's _ears à la Tortuë_ or _carbonnades de mouton à la Macédoine_
form the entrée; did a _caneton de Rouen_, a _poularde truffée_, or a
_coq-vièrge_ do the honours of the roast; could _des truffes au vin de
Champagne_ or a _gelée au marasquin_ have figured as the entremets;
and, finally, what might have been the _grosse pièce_? Alas! these
questions, like many questions of theology, must remain unanswered. It
will be observed, notwithstanding, how the wall furnishings, the roses,
the red of the _bisque_, the ripe hues of the melon and the salmon,
the erubescence of the strawberries, and the very waistcoat of the
_avertisseur_ were happily combined; and also that as far back as 1860
the muskmelon had already been employed as an admirable prologue of the
dinner during warm weather. As for the checkerboard _crême glacée_,
with four flavours and four colours for each person, it is an addition
to the dessert that is almost worthy of a sermon.
The following supplementary notes conclude the interesting account of
the dinner:
"The solid part of the menu I have no record or memory of.
All I know is that we ate pretty much everything that was
in sight, and then had just enough and no more. The dinner
concluded with four toasts and four speeches, the only one I
recall being on the theme, 'The Four Homes'--not one of the
four speakers having at the time set up a home of his own.
"A thing of beauty is a joy forever. We went upon the Latin
maxim, _In medio tutissimus ibis_, and so we took the _très
joli dîner_, which, with _vins compris_, cost us forty francs
or eight dollars apiece. But the recollection of it has been
worth at least two dollars a year since then: and as it is
forty years ago last summer, and two times forty is eighty, I
now count that I then paid only ten per cent. of its value."
It is needless to add that the sermons and addresses of the ecclesiast
in question, which join to their fervour and scholarship an originality
all their own (were they not inspired by the dinner at the "Trois
Frères"?), are always listened to with marked attention by his large
and appreciative audiences. It also goes without saying that he
has distinguished himself in literature, and that his presence is
invariably in demand either at a dinner or a debate of theologians.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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