The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Of dishes invented by the Roman Catholic priesthood, the _omelette à
la purée de pintade_, devised by the Capuchin Chabot, is well known,
although "The Curé's Omelette" for which Savarin stands sponsor is
far more in evidence and is difficult to improve upon either for fat
or meagre days. Should the recipe be already familiar, it will well
bear repetition--one cannot dine too often with a broad-minded divine;
if unknown, the reader should become acquainted with it--it is one
of the most sprightly of the _Variétés_. The tunny prescribed is
not obligatory, and for this and the carp-roes the resources of the
American sea-coast will furnish abundant equivalents:
"Every one knows that for twenty years Madame R.[38] has
occupied the throne of beauty unchallenged. It is also well
known that she is extremely charitable, taking interest in
most of those schemes whose object is to console and assist
the wretched.
"Wishing to consult M. le Curé on something connected with
that subject, she called upon him at five o'clock one
afternoon, and was astonished to find him already at table.
She thought everybody in Paris dined at six, not knowing that
the ecclesiastics generally begin early because they take a
light collation in the evening.
"Madame R. was about to retire, but the curé begged her to
stay, either because the matter they were to talk about need
not prevent him dining, or because a pretty woman is never a
mar-feast for any man; or perhaps because he bethought himself
that somebody to talk to was all that was wanted to convert
his dining-room into a gastronomic Elysium.
"The table was laid with a neat white cloth, some old wine
sparkled in a crystal decanter, the white porcelain was of
the choicest quality, the plates had heaters of boiling water
under them, and a servant, demure but neat, was in attendance.
"The repast was a happy mean between the frugal and the
luxurious. Some crab soup had just been removed, and there was
now on the table a salmon-trout, an omelette, and a salad.
"'My dinner shows you what perhaps you did not know,' said
the pastor, with a smile, 'that according to the laws of the
church meat is forbidden to-day.' The visitor bowed her
assent, but at the same time, as a private note informs me,
slightly blushed, which, however, by no means prevented the
curé from eating.
"Operations were already begun upon the trout, its upper side
being fully disposed of; the sauce gave proof of a skilful
hand, and the pastor's features betokened inward satisfaction.
That dish removed, he attacked the omelette, which was round,
full-bellied, and cooked to a nicety. At the first stroke of
the spoon, there ran out a thick juice, tempting both to sight
and smell; the dish seemed full of it, and my dear cousin
confessed that her mouth watered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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