The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"There needs to be two to eat a truffled turkey," the Abbé Morellet was
accustomed to say; "I never do otherwise. I have one to-day; we will be
two--the turkey and myself."
It may be of interest to note that the importation of the turkey to
Europe has been attributed by various scholiasts to the Jesuits,
in proof of which they assert that in many French provinces it was
formerly termed a _jésuite_, and that in some of the more remote
departments it was the custom to refer to it in the following manner:
"Come to dine with me; we will have a fat jésuite." "Monsieur, will you
pass me some of the jésuite?" It is also said to have been referred to
as a _jésuite en capilotade_ and a _jésuite au feu d'enfer_. Savarin
gives the period of its importation by the order in question as the
latter part of the seventeenth century; while the Marquis de Cussy
states it was imported a century earlier from Paraguay by the Jesuits,
and was served for the first time in public at the marriage of Charles
IX of France, when, according to Montluc, the young king disposed of
the left wing.
The true date of the turkey's flight into history is the early part
of the sixteenth century, when the learned confessor and historian to
Cortez, Fra Agapida, returned to Spain from his first visit to Mexico,
and wrote a brief narrative of the wonders of the New World. In this
account he called attention to the abundance of fine fish-food, and the
excellence of the venison and a variety of "wild cattle." "There is
also a bird," adds the discerning presbyter, "much greater in bigness
than a peacock, that is found within the forests and _vegas_ (meadows)
all over this country. It surpasses as food any wild bird we have found
up to this time. The natives do shoot these birds with arrows and catch
them in various kinds of springes and snares. They are sometimes very
large, being as much as thirty pounds in weight. They can fly, but
prefer to run, which they can do with exceeding swiftness."
No less is the introduction of the potato from South America due to the
monks, who first brought it to Europe in the proud galleons of Spain.
In Canon Barham's "A Lay of St. Nicholas," where the temptations of
the flesh proved stronger than the spiritual powers of the head of the
abbey, turkey and chine figure as the pieces of "resistance," with old
sherris sack, hippocras, and malmsey to flank them,--
"The Abbot hath donn'd his mitre and ring,
His rich dalmatic and maniple fine;
And the choristers sing as the lay-brothers bring
To the board a magnificent turkey and chine."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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