The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The capon, however, appears to have been the greatest favourite with
the clergy; its frequent companion, the carp, doubtless owing its
popularity to the fact that it is so easily raised, rather than that
it is more esteemed than numerous other species of fish. Even more
than the capon, the carp suggests the cenobites, bringing up a whole
train of monastic orders--with the cloister and the abbey as its most
congenial home. It is inalienably associated with the cassock and
chasuble, the rosary and censer, the peal of the organ and the glory of
old stained glass. It is essentially the sacred fish--the true "sole"
of piety. It whispers of sanctity and breathes of _Benedicites_. In
fancy one sees the abbot, rotund and rubicund, presiding at table,
with one eye upon the fish and the other lifted aloft, uttering his
_Bonum est confiteri_ ere the loud "Amen" resounds through the vaulted
chamber, and carp and capon are bathed in the red juices of the
monastery vineyard. Or it may be a pike, a mullet, or a dish of eels
that, cunningly prepared by the master-cook of the brotherhood, steeps
the refectory with the perfume of shallots and fine herbs, and justly
merits a _Benedic, anima mea_ from the partakers of the repast.
From an anecdote related by the Franciscan Jean Paulli de Thann, it
would appear that the olden monks had learned from the Scriptures a
particular method of carving fowls when they partook of them in secular
company. A gentleman had invited his confessor, who was a monk, to dine
in company with his wife, his two sons, and two daughters. There was a
fine capon for the roast, which the host requested the guest to carve.
The latter excused himself, but the host insisted.
"Inasmuch as you demand it," replied the monk, "I will carve the fowl
according to biblical principles."
"Yes," exclaimed the hostess, "act according to the Scriptures."
The theologian therefore began the carving. The baron was tendered
the head of the fowl, the baroness the neck, the two daughters a
wing apiece, and the two sons a first joint, the monk retaining the
remainder.
"According to what interpretation do you make such a division?"
inquired the host of his confessor, as he regarded the monk's heaping
plate and the scant portions doled out to the family.
"From an interpretation of my own," replied the monk. "As the master
of your house, the head belongs to you by right; the baroness, being
most near to you, should receive the neck, which is nearest the head;
in the wings the young girls will recognize a symbol of their mobile
thoughts, that fly from one desire to another; as to the young barons,
the drumsticks they have received will remind them that they are
responsible for supporting your house, as the legs of the capon support
the bird itself."
In England, during Elizabeth's reign, fish was largely consumed on the
festival of St. Ulric, a pious custom referred to by Barnaby Googe:
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