The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Less pretentious, and dealing more with the æsthetic side of good
living, are the essays of the "Original," by Thomas Walker, barrister
at law and magistrate, which treat of the pleasures of the table
under the titles, "The Art of Attaining High Health" and "The Art
of Dining."[41] These critical dissertations originally appeared in
1835 in a weekly periodical of which he was the editor, the series
terminating with his death the subsequent year. And if the influence of
the "Almanach" is readily discernible in the case of Dr. Kitchener, so
in like manner one detects a flavour of the "Physiology" in the genial
pages of Walker. Kitchener undoubtedly proves himself the more valiant
trencherman, while Walker remains the more refined and philosophic host.
His golden rule was, "Content the stomach and the stomach will content
you." A little irregularity in agreeable company he deems better than
the best observance in solitude. When dining alone is necessary,
however, he adds that the mind should be disposed to cheerfulness by a
previous interval of relaxation from whatever has seriously occupied
the attention, and by directing it to some agreeable object. And so
contentment ought to be an accompaniment to every meal. Punctuality
becomes the more essential, and the diner and the dinner should be
ready at the same time. Concerning dining in comfort, he holds that
a chief maxim is to have what you want when you want it, and not be
obliged to wait for little additions to be supplied, when what they
belong to is half or entirely finished.
The plates should be brought in before the dish, and the dish and
its adjuncts appear simultaneously; in other words, the necessary
condiments should always be at hand, and the wines should stand ready
to be poured out at the moment required,--the lesson of patience,
however desirable, is not a virtue that should be inculcated at the
dinner-table; and prompt service must ever form a great desideratum
of the perfect meal. In dining, more than anything else, perhaps,
whatever is worth doing at all is worth doing well, though this
were far from meaning that lavish expenditure need enter into the
hospitable relations of host and guests. Forethought and careful
personal attention, it may be reiterated, play a most important part
at the board of Good Cheer; and simple dishes unexceptionally prepared
and served, with the beverages that naturally accompany them at the
proper temperature, will garnish any table with a cloth of gold. "A
good soup, a small turbot, a neck of venison, ducklings with green
peas, or chicken with asparagus, and an apricot tart," the Earl of
Dudley was accustomed to say, "is a dinner for an emperor." There are
those possibly who might prefer the much more simple menu of a French
gourmet,--"A bottle of Chambertin, a _ragoût à la Sardanapale_, and
a pretty lady _causeur_, are the three best companions at table in
France."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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