The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
That he was strongly influenced by the writings of Grimod de la
Reynière is readily perceptible, though he states in the introduction
that his work is a bona-fide register of practical facts, and that he
has not printed a recipe which has not been proved in his own kitchen.
Before undertaking his task, he had consulted all the treatises
obtainable on the subject, amounting to no less than two hundred and
fifty volumes. These, he asserts, vary very little from one another,
and any one who has occasion to refer to two or three of them will find
the recipes almost always the same--equally unintelligible to those who
are ignorant, and useless to those who are acquainted with the business
of the kitchen. The numerous "Good Housewife's Closets," "Ladies'
Companions," and "Gentlewomen's Cabinets," in fact, are virtually
identical, save for their titles and forewords.
With the recipes of the "Oracle" the reader need not be as much
concerned as with its spirit and its epicurean principles, which
reveal a strongly marked individuality, and a comprehension far in
advance of the time in Great Britain. Oracular and discursive, the
author ambles pleasantly along the road of Conviviality, scattering his
maxims and dispensing his formulas, while dipping into volume after
volume to emphasise his text. The "Oracle" may be briefly described as
a quaint medley of cookery, hygienic precepts, science, gastronomy,
and domestic economy, written by a _bon vivant_. A long chapter is
devoted to the subject of invitations to dinner, wherein punctuality
is strictly insisted upon--dining, according to the writer, being the
only act of the day which cannot be put off with impunity for even five
minutes. He would have the cook the warden in chief, as defined by
Mercier, a physician who cures two mortal maladies, Hunger and Thirst;
or a _Hominum servatorem_--a preserver of mankind, as designated by
Plautus. A good dinner, he maintains, is one of the greatest enjoyments
of human life; but it should never be at the mercy of belated
guests,--"what will be agreeable to the stomach and restorative to the
system at five o'clock will be uneatable and indigestible at a quarter
past." When he himself gave a dinner-party, the guests were invited
for five o'clock, and at five minutes after the hour specified, the
street door was locked, and the key, by his order, was set aside. But
it is perhaps in the chapter on advice to cooks, and in his directions
as to the minutiæ of boiling, baking, roasting, and frying, that he is
most suggestive. A characteristic farewell to the reader concludes the
volume, which even to-day may be consulted with profit--an observation
that will also apply to many portions of its companion treatise, "The
Art of Invigorating and Prolonging Life."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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