The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Simplicity is constantly urged throughout "The Art of Dining," and
again and again does the author insist upon the necessity of having
whatever dish that may be served preceded by all its minor adjuncts,
and accompanied by all the proper vegetables quite hot, so that it may
be enjoyed entirely and at once. The liquid accessories he would have
placed upon the table in such a manner as to be as much as possible
within the reach of each person; and as Mathew Bramble, in "Humphrey
Clinker," talks, in his delights of rural life, of eating trout
struggling from the stream, so he would have his dishes served glowing
or steaming from the kitchen, a quality which lends a relish otherwise
impossible.
"There are two kinds of dinners" [he goes on to say]--"one
simple, consisting of a few dishes, the other embracing a
variety. Both kinds are good in their way, and both deserve
attention; but for constancy I greatly prefer the simple
style.... In the first place, it is necessary not to be afraid
of not having enough, and so to go into the other extreme
and have a great deal too much, as is almost invariably the
practice. It is also necessary not to be afraid of the table
looking bare, and so to crowd it with dishes not wanted,
whereby they become cold and sodden. 'Enough is as good as a
feast' is a sound maxim, as well in providing as in eating.
The having too much, and setting dishes on the table merely
for appearance, are practices arising out of prejudices which,
if once broken through, would be looked upon, and deservedly,
as the height of vulgarity. The excessive system is a great
preventive of hospitality, by adding to the expense and
trouble of entertaining, whilst it has no one advantage. It
is only pursued by the majority of people for fear of being
unlike the rest of the world."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account