The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"The party will consist of seven men beside myself, and every
guest is asked for some reason--upon which good fellowship
mainly depends; for people brought together unconnectedly
had, in my opinion, better be kept separate. Eight I hold to
be the golden number, never to be exceeded without weakening
the efficacy of concentration. The dinner is to consist of
turtle, followed by no other fish but whitebait, which is
to be followed by no other meat but grouse, which are to
be succeeded simply by apple-fritters and jelly; pastry on
such occasions being quite out of place. With the turtle of
course there will be punch, with the whitebait champagne,
and with the grouse claret: the two former I have ordered to
be particularly well iced, and they will all be placed in
succession on the table, so that we can help ourselves as
we please. I will permit no other wines, unless, perchance,
a bottle or two of port, if particularly wanted, as I hold
variety of wines a great mistake. With respect to the
adjuncts, I shall take care that there is cayenne, with lemons
cut in halves, not in quarters, within reach of every one
for the turtle, and that brown bread and butter in abundance
is set upon the table for the whitebait. The dinner will be
followed by ices and a good dessert, after which coffee and
one glass of liqueur each, and no more."
Surely, an excellent repast, if the cooking was all that could
have been desired, as the author happily informs the reader was
the case. But in his comments on the dinner occurs this qualifying
sentence,--"There was an opinion broached that some flounders,
water-zoutcheed, between the turtle and whitebait would have been
an improvement"; and, for once, the "Original" proves vacillating,
and adds--"Perhaps they would." Yet, if we are to believe no less
an authority than Thackeray, the dish under consideration is one
for which room may always be appropriately found--a dish that, when
well prepared, possesses ambrosial qualities. He is discoursing of
a flounder-souchy in the sketch entitled, "Greenwich Whitebait";
and one's mouth fairly waters as he reads it: "It has an almost
angelic delicacy of flavour; it is as fresh as the recollections of
childhood--it wants a Correggio's pencil to describe it with sufficient
tenderness."
The recipe for a water-souchy is thus given by Kitchener, to be made
with flounders, whiting, gudgeons, or eels:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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