The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Very numerous plants and herbs were employed as flavourings in the
kitchens of the ancients, such as dill, anise-seed, hyssop, thyme,
pennyroyal, rue, cummin, poppy-seed, shallots, and, naturally, onions,
garlic, and leeks--savoury then taking the place of parsley, which,
though known, was used more as a decoration and worn by guests as
an adornment. Cummin was largely utilised for seasoning. Sorrel was
cultivated by the Romans to increase its size, and, according to
Apicius, was eaten stewed with mustard and seasoned with oil and
vinegar. The carrot was stewed, boiled with cummin and a little oil,
and eaten as a salad, with salt, oil, and vinegar.
Brocoli was an especial favourite with Apicius, the most tender parts
being boiled, with the addition of pepper, chopped onions, cummin
and coriander seed bruised together, and a little oil and sun-made
wine. Turnips were boiled and seasoned with rue, cummin, and benzoin,
pounded in a mortar, adding afterwards honey, vinegar, gravy, boiled
grapes, and oil. Asparagus, which Lamb says inspires gentle thoughts,
was cultivated with notable care. The finest heads were dried, and
when wanted were placed in hot water and boiled. Lucullus and Apicius
ate only those that were grown in the environs of Nesis, a city of
Campania. Beets, mallows, artichokes, and cucumbers were greatly
relished and elaborately prepared, and garlic, extolled by Virgil and
decried by Horace, was generously used.
Apicius, in his treatise "De re Culinaria," gives numerous recipes
for cooking the cabbage--the silken-leaved, curled, and hard white
varieties. From these recipes we at once may judge of his resources,
and obtain an idea of a master vegetable-cook of the period:
"1. Take only the most delicate and tender part of the
cabbage, which boil, and then pour off the water; season it
with cummin seed, salt, old wine, oil, pepper, alisander,
mint, rue, coriander seed, gravy, and oil.
"2. Prepare the cabbage in the manner just mentioned, and make
a seasoning of coriander seed, onion, cummin seed, pepper, a
small quantity of oil, and wine made of sun raisins.
"3. When you have boiled the cabbages in water put them into
a saucepan and stew them with gravy, oil, wine, cummin seed,
pepper, leeks, and green coriander.
"4. Add to the preceding ingredients flour of almonds, and
raisins dried in the sun.
"5. Prepare them again in the above manner, and cook them with
green olives."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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