The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Sauce Soubise, sauce d'Orléans, sauce d'Uxelles, and sauce à la Régence
are all credited to great minds of the eighteenth century, so prolific
of new culinary discoveries. Through their piquant instrumentality
we may in imagination summon the splendours of the Regency and the
reign of Louis, surnamed "le Bien-Aimé," with the brilliant toilets of
its gay and pretty women--the high-heeled pointed shoe, the powdered
hair, the rouge and beauty-spot, the painted fan and walking-stick of
_fille_, duchesse, and marquise that still look at us from the canvases
of Boucher and Watteau. We may see, too, the V-shaped satin corsage,
the expansive pannier, the diaphanous _robe déshabillée_,--flounced,
frilled, flowered, and furbelowed,--the embroidered petticoat and surge
of lace and ribband, as fair dame and plumed gallant repair to the
suppers of the Palais-Royal and the Parc aux Cerfs, or sit down amid
umbrageous glades to the revels of a _fête champêtre_.
Almost as many varieties of sauces exist as of soups. But these may
vary little or largely from their usually accepted names. The cook
will tell you, if you are unacquainted with the fact yourself, that
by adding to simple melted butter a liberal amount of finely chopped
parsley (some ruin the relish with grated nutmeg, a spice which should
be used with great discretion), salt and pepper, and a dash of lemon,
you have what is termed a maître-d'hôtel sauce. Add to this finely
minced garden-cress, chervil, and a little tarragon and burnet, and
you produce a different sauce under the same name. Thus plain onion
sauce and sauce Soubise, in each of which the onion forms the dominant
chord, may differ equally, and sauce piquante and sauce Robert vary
only in their titles and the additional mustard called for by the
latter. Sauce poivrade, in like manner, is a sauce piquante with an
increased supply of pepper and without the pickled cucumber.
Among the most valuable of all sauces, though employed only cold and
served with cold viands, is that which at once suggests what Jules
Janin in an inadvertent moment termed the "cardinal of the seas," and
that at a luncheon or a late supper possesses a merit distinctively
its own. This Carême has dealt with at length in his treatise on cold
sauces. The origin of the word "mayonnaise," a blending supposed to
be the invention of the Maréchal de Richelieu, has always remained in
doubt. Its etymology has been attributed to Mahon, a town of southern
France. Yet this supposed derivation is extremely dubious; and as
it was also known as "bayonnaise," it might be ascribed equally to
Bayonne, famous for its hams, its cheese, and its chocolate, and for
having invented the bayonet.[48]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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