The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
It has been variously termed mahonaise, bayonnaise, mahonnoise,
magnonaise, and mayonnaise. But Carême, after minutely describing its
preparation, from the first drop of oil to its final silky, white, and
unctuous cream, denies its accepted derivation, and pronounces it
_magnonaise_, from the verb _manier_--to stir; as it may be prepared
only through the continual stirring it undergoes, which results in
a marrowy, velvety, and very appetising sauce, unique of its kind,
and bearing no resemblance to others that are obtained only through
reductions of the range. Despite this ingenious explanation, the word
is still written "mayonnaise"; and while lights shine brilliantly, and
champagne sparkles, and the great crawfish, sublimated into salad,
receives the encomiums of appreciative guests, the famous chef of the
Empire is forgotten, and the chapter of the "Cuisinier Parisien" exists
only as a tale that is told.
It may be observed that a good sauce should be perfect in flavour,
colour, smell, and consistency. It should be savoury, flowing, and
well defined. On the proper _liaison_, a correct apportionment of the
flavourings, a knowledge of the range, and a discriminating palate,
supplemented by long experience, depends its triumph. Of course the
_bain-marie_ will be readily accessible when the sauce is obliged to
wait, the butter will be unexceptionable, and the shallot especially
will never be lacking when its virtues are in request. As has been
previously stated in the case of numerous other culinary preparations,
success depends more upon the practitioner than the formula. It is as
difficult, therefore, to describe the subtle chiaroscuro of a perfect
sauce as to define the hues that mantle the petals of the rose "Beauté
Inconstante," or the combined odours hived by a windless night of June.
Comparatively few sauces may suffice for the modest household to
supplement the espagnole, or brown sauce, and the velouté, or white
sauce, the foundations from which most others are compounded. These two
rudimentary sauces, to be well made, should not be greasy, but contain
just enough fat, according to the authorities, to present the velvety
appearance of a full-blown damask rose. Carême devotes twenty-five
pages to these "mother sauces" and their two slight modifications,
béchamel and allemande; while Francatelli points out that although
great care and watchful attention are requisite in every branch of
cookery, the exercise of these qualities is most essential in the
preparation of the grand stock sauces. In the home kitchen these are
naturally prepared in an infinitely more simple manner than according
to the elaborate recipes of the great professors of the table.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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