The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Combining so many advantages, it is to be deplored that the
preservation of game in this country is not more carefully guarded, and
that the scarcity of many species is becoming more and more apparent.
The practice of spring shooting of snipe, duck, and shore-birds, when
on their migrations to their northern nesting-grounds, cannot be too
severely censured; while the laxity in enforcing the laws and the
dissimilarity of close seasons in different counties operates still
further to cause the depletion of wild life. The pot-hunter and the
spaniel, the trap and the gin, are gradually exterminating the ruffed
grouse; the olden flocks of plover and wild pigeon have well-nigh
vanished; while snipe, woodcock, quail, and duck are now as rare in
many localities where they formerly abounded as the trout which once
swarmed in the streams. Deer and its congeners, it is true, have
received better protection of recent years, the increasing numbers
of deer at least attesting the wisdom of stringent laws stringently
enforced. It will therefore be readily evident that preservation
and protection become a question of paramount importance which may
no longer be loosely considered, or soon the last grouse will have
sounded his reveille, and the whistle of the woodcock will remain
only as a memory. The remedy is easily prescribed, and may be briefly
summarised--legitimate shooting and fishing, rigid enforcement of the
laws with heavy penalties for the offender, a single close season for
the smaller species that are found in proximity, abolishment of spring
shooting, and a rigorous surveillance of the covers. By this means the
table may possess one of its greatest luxuries in abundance, and sport
resume its former sphere as the greatest of recuperative and edifying
recreations.
In its relation to the table, the term "game" is held to include wild
fowl as well as most furred and feathered spoils of the chase. Or,
defined more accurately in its connection with gastronomy, it embraces
everything belonging to the province of sport that is edible. Correctly
speaking, no species of wild fowl, or species like the plover, rail,
pigeon, etc., may be accounted game, the quality of which consists in
the subtle presence of scent, instinctively recognised and followed by
thoroughbred dogs,--a trait expressed by Hollar's lines,
"The Feasant Cocke the woods doth most frequent,
Where Spaniells spring and pearche him by the sent."
Yet species foreign to the blue blood of flax and feather may,
nevertheless, afford sport, and prove acquisitions for the table. The
little spotted sandpiper, accordingly, whose musical _peet, weet,
weet_ rings along the brooksides and moist meadow-lands, and even the
squirrel if killed in cold weather, are entitled to rank as table-game,
providing they be properly prepared.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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