The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Another much esteemed native table-bird is the sora, crake, or Carolina
rail, who should not be confounded with the British and European
corn-crake or land-rail whom Michael Drayton refers to as "seldom
coming but on rich man's spits," and Gilbert White represents as crying
_crex! crex!_ from the low, wet bean-fields of Christian Malford and
the meadows near Paradise Gardens at Oxford. The sora throngs the
marshes of the Atlantic coast in early autumn, congregating in the
greatest quantities south of the Rappahannock, where he is slaughtered
by wholesale with comparatively little diminution of his ranks. He
is a small dark-fleshed bird of great delicacy when broiled, and by
many is prized more highly than the toothsome reed-bird or the golden
plover. Though resembling the corn-crake in many ways, his nearest
relative abroad is the spotted crake. The great-breasted or king-rail
of the fresh-water marshes is likewise much esteemed. In flavour the
sora is not unlike the wild duck; or, if the comparison may be made,
a cross between the qualities of a teal and a snipe--deriving his
special richness from the seeds of _Zizania aquatica_, or tall, wild
reed of the tidewater shores. The juicy little bobolink whose rippling
_scherzo_, flung over the fallows and buttercups of June, is basely
forgotten by the epicure in the fall, may be crunched in a mouthful;
the sora is thrice his size, and, though seldom as fat, is richer in
the quality of his ruddy flesh.
It were a parlous task to attempt to describe from memory the
respective merits of the reed-bird, the famed European ortolan, and the
English wheatear, fieldfare, and mistletoe-thrush. One stands helpless
under such a contretemps, and must necessarily await the advent and the
edict of another La Reynière. The fig-pecker of southern Europe is more
easily passed upon, and readily ranks first among small table-birds.
The tall yellowshank or stone-snipe, with his slim gilded stilts
and snow-white breast, familiar to the gunner as a migrant and a
frequent companion of the upland-plover, would be esteemed by the
sportsman-epicure if only for the recollection of his splendid spread
of wing, his graceful circlings, his loud whistling notes, and his
lovely silvery plumage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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