The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
With the speckled trout, the rainbow-trout, the sunapee-trout or
saibling, the black-bass and muscalonge should also be included among
distinctly native game-fish. The brown trout of Europe has recently
been introduced into many American waters, as the Mongolian pheasant
has been introduced in the fields. But the American speckled trout,
who is in reality a char and smaller than the European trout, is
higher flavoured, and, like the saibling and the rainbow-trout of
the Rockies, is a far more beautiful fish. The brown trout thrives
under warmer conditions than the speckled trout, and consequently is
an acquisition. But as he attains a much larger size, it is unwise
to place him in waters tenanted by the native species, as the larger
fish has already proved very destructive to the smaller fry of the
_Salvelinus fontinalis_.
It is superfluous to state that fish cannot be too fresh, in which
respect it is the reverse of game. The quail, and especially the ruffed
grouse, should be hung long enough to develop their flavour. Eaten too
soon, they do not represent game, as their quality is not attained;
hung too long, on the other hand, they are not fit for the table. To
cook quite fresh game is to deride its mission on earth. A happy medium
should be observed in the ease of maturing most species. The duck,
woodcock, and snipe should only be mellowed or kept under favourable
conditions for a short period. They are like a peach, which is best
when recently plucked, as opposed to a pear, which requires to be
slowly ripened after gathering. It is possible to eat a "high" grouse
or pheasant, if not too gamy; but a duck past the meridian of maturity
is well-nigh impossible, as is also a shore-bird or either of the
long-bills.
There is no occasion to bury the wild boar, as is sometimes done in
Europe for the purpose of mellowing him; inasmuch as he does not exist
in America, and the razorback hog of the South, however well he may
have feasted on beech-mast, cannot take his place. But in place of
the wild boar we have the lordly moose, elk, and caribou, and the
picturesque Rocky Mountain sheep and goat, which, if not all desirable
for the larder, nevertheless afford magnificent sport; while by many a
young caribou or elk, as also a mountain sheep, is considered among the
graces of edible furred game.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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