The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
All things considered, the ruffed grouse--the "partridge" of the North
and "pheasant" of the South--is entitled to rank first among feathered
game. Nothing swifter or more valiant in plumage tests the sportsman's
nerve and skill. So far as sport is concerned, he may be placed, from
his alertness, swiftness, and the trying nature of his usual habitat,
on a par with the trout of the clear Hampshire chalk-streams, whose
fastidiousness in rising to the artificial fly so taxes the angler's
resources on the placid reaches of the Itchen, the Anton, and the
Test. He is preëminently the bird of the woodlands, supreme in his
sturdiness and his strength. His roll-call awakens the wind-flower, and
his thunderous _whir!_ fans the September air into freshness. He blends
with the buffs of the beech and russets of the oak, and is eloquent
with the lustihood of the ripened year. And how artfully he assimilates
with the shadows and thrusts a tree-trunk between himself and the
gunner!
See him as he springs from the tangle of the saplings, a shaft of
mottled splendour where the sunlight strikes his sides; and the hoarse
boom of the double-barrel fails to check his tumultuous flight. Behold
him in the spring while he struts upon his chosen log with extended
tufts and expanded feathers, beating the air with his wings, and
sounding his reverberating peal of defiance and of love. Consider
him amid the rigours of the frost, loyal to his native haunts, true to
the instincts of his race, when most of his companions have deserted
him for more congenial climes. Observe him once more when the deadly
volley has stopped his career, and he falls upon the russet carpet, in
glossy black ruff, and plumage in blended hues of olive, brown, black,
and grey--the noblest game-bird that treads the forest aisles!
[Illustration: PARTRIDGE SHOOTING, I. LA CHASSE AUX PERDRIX
From the coloured print after Howitt, 1807]
And if no other member of his family requires more address in bringing
to bag, none may surpass, if equal, him in his wild woodland flavour.
His back is the very incarnation of poignancy, while no bird that
flies can vie with the whiteness and plumpness of his breast. This is
saying nothing against the prairie-chicken in his younger stage, or
the eastern quail, or even the two long-billed beauties beloved by the
sportsman and the epicure. But the assertion may be safely ventured
that he will lend himself to more varieties of wine in evolving their
_sève_ than any other representative of the haunts of Pan. _Bonasa
umbellus!_ may birch-bud and beech-nut, wintergreen and partridge-vine,
never fail thee in snow and storm!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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