The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Of recent years artificial _truffières_ have been largely planted in
the favoured districts of southern France. To M. Rousseau, a proprietor
of Vaucluse, has been erroneously ascribed the discovery of this means
of production. Already during the middle of the eighteenth century
M. de Montclar, procureur-général at Aix, discovered truffles as the
result of sowing acorns on his lands; but, the truffles disappearing
subsequently, no further attention was paid to the matter, and the
relation between cause and effect passed unnoticed or was forgotten.
Since then Poitou, Périgord, and Provence have each claimed to be the
discoverer of artificial truffle culture. It is within a comparatively
short period only that the merit of originating the system, now a
source of great revenue, was adjudged, after painstaking investigation,
to Joseph Talon, a small landholder of Vaucluse, who about eighty
years ago sowed some acorns in an unremunerative piece of ground. Ten
years afterwards, while passing through the plantation with the pig
he employed in hunting, he was not a little surprised to find truffles
beneath the oaks; when, recollecting that he had obtained the acorns
from a truffle-oak, he repeated the sowing on another plot, which in
course of time proved equally successful. The theory was established
beyond a doubt, and the result finally became generally known, despite
his efforts to keep it secret.
Many unsuccessful attempts at artificial truffle-raising have been
made. In 1830 Alexander Bernholz, a German, published a long treatise
on the subject, his theory being that by planting truffles in soil
composed of certain ingredients, and in localities and expositions
corresponding to their natural habitat, they could be successfully
grown. Count Noé, in the south of France, is said to have succeeded
in raising truffles in his woods by irrigating the ground, after
a certain degree of preparation, with water in which the skins of
truffles had been rubbed. But this statement, as well as other reputed
successful attempts at reproduction, would not seem to have been borne
out in France, where the planting of young truffle-oaks, the acorns
of truffle-oaks, or certain other truffle-producing trees alone has
accomplished the desired result.
In artificial plantations the truffles form in from six to ten years,
usually disappearing when the trees are twenty-five or thirty years
old. Then, after a variable period of non-production, the tuber often
forms again. As the truffle-tree develops, the vegetable growth which
surrounds it begins to decline, a certain index that truffles are
commencing to form--the ground round a truffle-producing tree being
always sterile. When the truffles cease the herbage again appears.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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