The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Though many unsatisfactory reasons have been ascribed for the
phenomenon, it has been traced by M. Grimblot to the simple fact
that the filaments of the mycelium invade and destroy the roots of
herbaceous vegetation. Similarly, vegetation asserts itself when the
cause is removed. With young trees the truffles are usually found
close to the trunk, whereas with old trees they generally appear near
the periphery of the circle formed by the outer roots, as well as at
a distance further removed, but usually within the shade of the tree.
To what extent the humus of the soil formed by the droppings of the
leaves is responsible is not stated. In many respects the subject
remains, as it has always remained, a complex phenomenon that baffles
the naturalist, who is usually content to refer to the truffle as
an "underground fungus," or "an order of sporidiiferous fungi of
subterranean habit." Perhaps the definition of Dr. C. de Ferry de la
Bellone, which may be summarised as follows, is as accurate as any: "A
subterraneous mushroom with a mycelium or filamentous body, from which
it is developed, like the mushroom, and which requires the roots of
certain trees for its formation."[52] The theory that the truffle owes
its genesis to the roots of trees, or is in some mysterious manner
connected with them, might be accepted as satisfactory were it not that
species are also found in open places where the argument could not
apply.
While the roots of most kinds of oaks, both deciduous and evergreen,
appear to be favourable for its generation, it has been found that
in a given region the best species to propagate are those which have
already produced the tuber in the locality in question, certain
varieties seeming to be more liable to reproduce it than others.
Climate, altitude, and exposition are also to be considered as regards
the choice of the kinds selected for plantations. The arboriculturist
and mycologist will be interested in the various truffle-producing
oaks that may be utilised, according to the site, soil, and climatic
conditions. These embrace the following species and varieties: Quercus
pedunculata, Q. ped. pubescens, Q. semi-ped., Q. sessiliflora nigra,
Q. nigra sessil. glabra, Q. nigra sessil. pub., Q. sessil. pub., Q.
sessil. laciniata, Q. sessil. magna pubes, Q. ilex, Q. coccifera. All
kinds of nut-trees are likewise favourable to its production, and
may be planted almost indiscriminately. The range of T. melanosporum
is broadly defined as between latitude 49° north and 40° south; the
question of quality depending, like that of many other esculents,
largely on climate and habitat. As in the same vineyard certain
portions yield a superior wine, so on particular slopes of localities
that favour the truffle a product of finer quality is obtained.
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