The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"You are the most expensive guest I have had in a long time," remarked
the host, with a smile, the following day. "I must think what we can
have this evening for dinner; or, better, consult with madame. There
is plenty of champagne in which to cook truffles, if the cook and the
truffles were in evidence. I told her I wanted plenty of truffles for
you, and the remaining eleven cans of the dozen in the larder were
tendered you last night."
The truffle has formed the theme of numerous books and treatises. To
the French gastronomer who may obtain the fresh product during a large
portion of the year, the work of M. M. Moynier will unquestionably
prove of the greatest value--a major portion being devoted to a
scientific analysis of the various dishes, with their recipes, in
which the esculent may properly figure. It is justly claimed by the
author that wine is an indispensable accompaniment of this "astonishing
production" or any dish in which it may enter; but that sweet
champagne to which women are so partial masks rather than quickens
its flavour.[53] The mycologist who simply wishes to know the species
and habits of hypogæus fungi will no doubt prefer the monograph of
Vittatini, Milan, 1831; that of M. Tulasne, Paris, 1852; and the
instructive work of Dr. de Ferry already cited. Few more interesting
fields for research offer themselves than that presented by the black
pearl which is concealed beneath the soil--living its strange life
beyond the ken of human eye, and revealing itself only through the
agency of the animals employed by man to discover it, and of the insect
tribes that hover above it in their dance of rivalry and love.
Savarin, above all writers, has considered the truffle philosophically
in his comparatively brief reference; and although he failed to answer
the question, "What is the truffle, how is it produced, and how does
it grow?" he has still appraised its virtues in his own inimitable way.
That it is digestible has been amply proven before, and this point
did not require his researches to substantiate. The only charges that
history records against it are gluttony in eating it, and the fact that
Lartius Licinius, a person of prætorian rank, while minister of justice
at Carthage in Spain, upon biting a truffle found a denarius inside,
which cost him the loss of a tooth--a proof to Pliny that it was
nothing but an agglomeration of elementary earth. Of certain attributes
it is supposed to possess, the sixth Meditation of the "Physiology,"
to which the reader is referred, will speak clearly for itself; and
it will be sufficient to transcribe the conclusion of the learned
chancellor's deductions:
"_La truffe n'est point un aphrodisiaque positif; mais elle
peut en certaines occasions rendre les femmes plus tendres et
les hommes plus aimables._"
Referring to Savarin's conclusion, Dr. de Ferry makes this statement,
based on professional experience:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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