The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"_Sur l'individu sain et bien portant, la truffe excite des
fonctions spéciales.... La truffe peut ajouter seulement
aux qualités de ceux qui possèdent; elle n'est plus d'aucun
secours à ceux qui, n'ayant pas géré leur capital en bons
pères de famille, ont consommé leur ruine._"
Little attention has been paid to the question whether edible truffles
equal to the best European species exist within the broad area of the
United States, whence so many useful and delicious food products and
flavourings have sprung. M. Moynier states that he has tasted most
excellent truffles from Brazil; and that a grey species of merit, round
in form, is found on the right bank of the Mississippi--a somewhat
vague statement, in view of the length of that river. The only species
that Saccardo's "Sylloge" credits to this country is T. macrosporum,
said to have been found in Pennsylvania. Some years ago Mr. W. R.
Gerard reported having discovered T. dryophilum on Staten Island.
Rhizopogon rubescens, a puff-ball, grows underground in the Southern
States, and is sometimes mistaken for the truffle; also certain species
of Scleroderma, or puff-balls which are partially underground. There
are besides some of the false truffles of the genus Elaphomyus in the
Eastern States. It will thus be seen that the subterranean fungi belong
to three distinct orders. Dr. H. W. Harkness, in 1899, issued in the
California Academy of Science Proceedings an illustrated article on the
Hypogæus Fungi of California, wherein he describes thirteen species, of
which seven are new and all of which he pronounces edible, though few,
if any, of them are found in abundance or are worth considering from a
practical standpoint.
[Illustration: "NOUVEL MANUEL COMPLET DU CUISINIER ET DE LA
CUISINIÈRE"
Facsimile of frontispiece, 1822]
From this it may be inferred that if these fungi could be diligently
sought for in other States by those who have carefully studied the
haunts and habitat of the tuber abroad, many desirable species might
be found to belong to our country. Dr. Harkness does not mention T.
melanosporum among Californian species. At present we do not know
whether this or T. magnatum, or some form possessing equally adorable
qualities, occurs in our country at all; but they and others, it is
possible, may yet be unearthed to disclose to the epicure a true
"sample of Paradise." To do this, trained truffle-pigs and-dogs must
be brought into requisition; and should the search then be unrewarded,
the truffle-oak must needs be imported and planted under conditions
corresponding to those of its native habitat. Let America add the
truffle to her already rich alimentary resources, by all means, even
if she must remain content with the wines of France as supplied from
oversea.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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