The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
By the seventeenth-century poet William Browne, bard of "Britannia's
Pastorals" and "The Shepherd's Pipe," the mushroom is thus alluded to:
"Down in a valley by a forest's side,
Near where the crystal Thames rolls on her waves,
I saw a mushroom stand in haughty pride
As if the lilies grew to be his slaves."
Then, after praising the daisy, violet, and other flowers whose beauty
was overpowered by the fungus, he thus concludes a much-admired sonnet:
"These, with a many more, methought complained
That Nature should those needless things produce,
Which not alone the sun from others gained,
But turn it wholly to their proper use.
I could not choose but grieve that Nature made
So glorious flowers to live in such a shade."
Where noisome toadstools crowd out violets and daisies, it may be right
for poets to protest. As it is, we have little in the description to
guide us to the species, whether it was a desirable or an undesirable
kind. There is no allusion as to its toxic properties, nor yet to
its colour; and its seeming size--if the simile of the lilies be
considered--may only be a license which poets are allowed. But the bard
of Tavistock, whose "oaten melodye" still rings sweet and clear, has
written too lovingly of trees to suppose he could perceive no use or
beauty in a striking vegetable growth; and therefore the particular
form he refers to would appear to have been a noxious one.
Surely, it was not the lovely mauve-coloured Cortinarius, that seeks
the "forest's shade"; the expanded pea-green cope of the sweet and
nutty Russula; or the glowing orange hood of the dulcet Lactarius
that incurred his disapproval! Nor can one conceive it to have been
the tall-stemmed, fluted-capped Coprinus, or the stylish parasolled
Lepiota, which stands as upright as the stilted Bartramian sandpiper,
and that is held in equal esteem by the epicure. Rather let us suppose
it was the great poison Amanita, which has slain its thousands, and
whose brilliant reds and salmons and yellows, and white scales borne
aloft on their hollow pedestal, cry aloud from every gill, "Beware!"
Or if it was not this or the equally deadly A. phalloides on which his
graceful sonnet was based, it must have been the Lycoperdon which cast
its shade upon the violets--the giant puff-ball that the poet did not
recognise as a valuable food product when neatly sliced and fried, and
that it is still the rule to kick out of one's way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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