The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
By many A. Rodmani, the small compact species common to cities and
found growing along the sidewalks and curb, is preferred to campestris.
Less rich, it still possesses a full, nutty fragrance and flavour, and
is more digestible. Even more distinguished is another agaric, Lepiota
procura, or the tall parasol-mushroom--one of the most delicious of all
edible fungi. Many valuable species throng the woods and shady places
during a large portion of the genial season, to push through the mould
or clothe the stumps and decaying logs--in most instances ungathered or
unseen. And though Claudius, Tiberius, Pope Clement VII, Charles V of
France, Czar Alexis of Russia, and many other celebrated personages met
their death from eating deleterious mushrooms, and every year scores of
families are poisoned through them, the esculent continues to occupy
a highly exalted place among aliments. Ignorance and carelessness are
almost entirely responsible for disastrous results, owing to its use
as food, although ill effects naturally occur through over-indulgence
in eating perfectly harmless varieties, or where these may have passed
the edible stage. Extremely rich in nitrogenous elements as well as in
sapid properties, mushrooms should be sparingly partaken of. Sliced and
placed on hot toast which has been moistened with broth and the juices
of the cooking, one may often obtain all the flavour of the mushroom by
its employment in moderate quantities, and thus over-ingestion will be
avoided.
The study of fungi has always proved a fascinating one for the
botanist. With the aid of nearly any of numerous monographs in which
the various genera are described, as also faithfully reproduced in
colours, the student and nature-lover may easily familiarize himself
with at least the more important species. In his search for practical
information he will be led through many a smiling scene removed from
the haunts of man; while his chief precaution in his pursuit out of
doors need only be to avoid the Taurus and the deadly Amanita. The
trained mycologist, however, will readily distinguish between the
beautiful toxic Fly-Amanita and the inviting edible orange variety,
which, having graced the table of a Roman emperor, received the
name "Cæsar's mushroom," whence its botanical appellation. This is
the "Oronge" of the French and "Kaiserling" of the Germans, more
prized, perhaps, than the Morel, the white Helvella, or the handsome
Chanterelle. Its odour is said to resemble a combination of vanilla and
truffles. The variety rubescens is also regarded as one of the best
of edible mushrooms. Of all fungi the Amanitas are most to be feared;
and while numerous other kinds possess unwholesome and forbidden
properties, the dangerously poisonous belong principally to this single
genus. To them Gerard's definitions, "excressences," "Toadstooles,"
"very venomous and full of poison," may well apply.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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