The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
There is finally the plan adopted by Chaptal, which consists in
saturating and mixing the salad material with oil, seasoned with pepper
and salt, before employing the vinegar. By this treatment the salad can
never become too acid, for should the vinegar happen to be excessive,
it slips over the oil to the bottom of the bowl. This means, while
advantageous for tender cos or lettuce, is not so desirable for any
material that may have a tendency to toughness, as the vinegar may not
as readily penetrate and soften the leaves. Good oil, vinegar, and
pepper and careful incorporating of the ingredients, with a judicious
use of herbs, and the tact born of experience, count for everything in
the preparation of salads.
Mayonnaise dressing of course belongs to certain greenmeat salads, as
well as the so-called French dressing--the most easily prepared and
wholesome of all. The mayonnaise is especially favoured by femininity,
and the French dressing by the sterner sex; though for meat salads, as
a general rule, the mayonnaise, mayonnaise _à la ravigotte_, or sauce
_provençale_ is prescriptive.
Growing salad is an art of the kitchen-garden, in which soil, selection
of varieties, watering, shading, blanching, and protection have their
part. But with a little space and care, salads may be had by almost
every one during the greater portion of the year. For late autumn
and winter use, the different varieties of endive, corn-salad, and
chicory are easily raised: corn-salad requiring no other trouble than
two or three sowings in August, a little attention in watering and
shading, and the gathering of the hardy green tufts beneath the snow.
Late endive calls for a dry, well-protected root-house, while chicory
needs to be taken up by the roots and forced in boxes in the cellar,
due attention being paid to excluding the light. Of this excellent
winter salad, the comparatively new variety "Witloof," largely grown
in Belgium for the Paris market, is an improvement on the old "Barbe
de Capucin." Of late years the useful and easily grown, broad-leaved
Batavian endive has deteriorated, having become coarser-grained and
often recalling the cabbage in flavour. Cos is the most difficult of
all salads to grow under our tropical summer sun, and unless well
grown--brittle, blanched, and free from bitterness--it is next to
worthless. Many good varieties of lettuce have a tendency to run out,
and these should be carefully watched by the gardener.
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