The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
On the restaurant cards salads usually appear with their French
appellations, which are sometimes confusing. In France, for instance,
chicory is generally termed endive, and endive is termed chicory.
Lettuce is naturally laitue, cos being known as romaine, broad-leaved
Batavian endive as escarolle--the curled-leaved varieties of endive
being familiar as chicorée frisée. Corn-salad is the mâche or doucette,
chicory is the "Barbe de Capucin," though the variety "Witloof" passes
current as endive. There is nothing mysterious, therefore, as some
suppose, in French salads and French names of salads beyond the fact
that in restaurants of the higher class special attention is paid to
procure the best possible material from skilled market-gardeners, and
the dressing is supposed to be performed by a competent practitioner
who has the best of condiments at command.
"The field is never wholly void of cypress and tulip," saith a ghazel
of Hafiz; "one goeth, but another yet appeareth in its place." It
is much the same with the successive profusion of sallets. By way
of variety, a salad of raw celery-root with a mayonnaise dressing,
somewhat thinned, in which a generous amount of mustard has been
blended, affords a pleasing distinction from celery in the usual
form and the green material which constantly offers itself; as does
also an occasional salad of the scarcer celery-turnip, beloved by
Europeans. Sliced radishes, and young green onions from the garden,
as an accompaniment to the first trout or shad, need no apology. The
appetising but indigestible and flatulent German black radish is not to
be recommended, although one may retain the most grateful recollections
of the potato, cucumber, and herring salads of the Fatherland.
Spain has always borne a reputation for its salads in inverse ratio to
that of its cookery; and if one is fond of pepper and peppers, green or
red, as well as garlic, the Spanish salad, whether of tomato, cucumber,
beans, potato, or lettuce, is to be commended. The Italian may be
relied upon never to neglect garlic wherever any excuse for utilising
it is presented; but the Spaniard, in addition, deems it a heresy if
the live pepper does not sting, stimulate, and permeate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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