The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Deprived of the cucumber, the list of salads were equally shorn of
one of its most useful and appreciated members. And whether, as
Gerarde affirms, that "of the divers sorts--some greater, some lesser,
some of the garden, some wilde, some of one fashion, and some of
another--all of the cucumbers are of temperature cold and moist of the
second degree, and yield unto the body a cold nourishment, and that
very little and the same not good"--who would consent for a moment to
have the cucumber eliminated from the list of edibles! Think of its
hidden "Vertues"! "It openeth and clenseth, openeth the stoppings of
the liver, helpeth the chest and lungs that are inflamed; and being
stamped and outwardly applied instead of a denser, it maketh the skin
smooth and faire." No wonder it was such a favourite with Tiberius,
who was never without it, and had frames made upon wheels, by means of
which the growing fruit might be moved and exposed to the full heat
of the sun; while in winter they were withdrawn and placed under the
protection of frames glazed with mirror-stone. No wonder that Isaiah,
in speaking of the desolation of Judah, declared: "The daughter of
Zion is left as a cottage in a vineyard, as a lodge in a garden of
cucumbers." The main point with the cucumber is to eliminate the
prussic acid it contains, by slicing it and soaking it in ice-water
and salt for a short time before using. Then, the Hock!--the shad, the
whitefish, the pompano, the turbot, the sole!
And when endive is nicely blanched, and the first dark-blue double
violets appear in the greenhouse--though skies lower and the storm
frown without--what in the varied round of the seasons presents itself
more delicious than a blue-violet salad, with a flask of some noble
vintage worthy to bear it company! The recipe, which cannot be too
widely known, has been presented at length in a previous volume:[60]
"There was a great bunch of double violets on the table, the
lovely dark variety (_Viola odoratissima flore pleno_) with
their short stems, freshly plucked from the garden, and the
room was scented by their delicious breath.
"A bowl of broad-leaved Batavian endive, blanched to a nicety
and alluring as a siren's smile, was placed upon the table. I
almost fancied it was smiling at the violets. A blue-violet
salad, by all means! there are violets and to spare.
"On a separate dish there was a little minced celery, parsley,
and chives. Four heaped salad-spoonfuls of olive-oil were
poured upon the herbs, with a dessertspoonful of white
wine vinegar, the necessary salt and white pepper, and a
tablespoonful of Bordeaux. The petals of two dozen violets
were detached from their stems, and two thirds of them were
incorporated with the dressing. The dressing being thoroughly
mixed with the endive, the remaining flower petals were
sprinkled over the salad and a half-dozen whole violets placed
in the centre.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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