The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
About this period the baba, beloved by the fair sex, met with great
favour in France. The baba was the invention of King Stanislas
Leszcynski of Poland, a noted epicure, to make amends for the harshness
of his name; its ingredients being German yeast, flour, butter, eggs,
cream, sugar, saffron, candied citron, Corinthian raisins, currants,
and Madeira, Malaga, or rum. It is said to be a difficult entremets to
"seize," so as to preserve its attractive reddish colour, which should
recall a late October afterglow. It at once appealed to the sweet
tooth of femininity, even though that most delectable of garden herbs,
angelica, when candied, was overlooked among the sweet ingredients.
Like the truffle as described by Savarin, the baba was supposed to
render woman more plastic and man more expansive,--_rien que le voir,
les yeux rient et les cœurs chantent_.
The date of the introduction of plum-pudding and mince-pie is difficult
to ascertain. As early as 1424 appears a mention in an English bill of
fare of "Vyaunt ardent," which suggests the former and may have been
its precursor. The original recipe of either must have been formidable
to follow when one reflects how even now they are provocative of a
nightmare, unless executed by the deftest of hands. Plum-pudding
in anything like its present form does not appear in cookery books
anterior to 1675. Previous to this, plum-porridge, which always served
as a first course at Christmas, was prepared by boiling beef or mutton
with broth thickened by brown bread. When half cooked, raisins,
currants, prunes, cloves, nutmeg, mace, ginger, and other condiments
were added, and after the mixture had been thoroughly boiled it was
served with meats--a dish fit for the digestive capacities of Jack the
Giant-killer. An essentially English product, the plum-pudding has
rarely found favour in France, although Louis XVIII was accustomed to
serve it at Christmas, and it has long had a place on the menus of many
Parisian restaurants. A very elaborate recipe for "Plumbuting" is given
by Beauvilliers; but preferable to all formulas is the comparatively
simple one of Blot, a dish which may be digested as well as enjoyed,
and which is within the range of the average cook. Of course
plum-pudding is best during the holiday season, and best of all at the
feast of Christmas day.
Mince-pie is an ancient English dish which America has refined. The
Year-Book of William Hone of the early part of the past century
contains an extended "Ode to the Mince-Pye," which met the approbation
of Scott, Lamb, and Southey. In this it is referred to as the "King of
Cates,"
"whose pastry-bounded reign
Is felt and own'd o'er pastry's wide domain:
Whom greater gluttons own their sovereign lord
Than ever bowed beneath the dubbing sword.
. . . . . . . . .
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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