Salad, 362; virtues of, as defined by Savarin, 301, 411; virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, 411; its mission and place at the dinner, 418 Salads, remote use of, 10 Salmis. La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, 286 Sandpiper (Bartramian). _Vide_ "Plover" and "Papabotte" Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, 304 Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, 12 Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, 334; a good, as defined by La Reynière, 345; anchovy, 345; (a good), its qualification, 349 Sauce tartare, a novel, 256 Sauces old English, 84; best for brook trout, 191; (Francatelli's), for mutton and game, 209, 368; (English), 277; merits of, 249, 345; Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, 277; bread, 289, 368; their relation to gastronomy, 345; Marquis de Cussy on, 346; mayonnaise, its history and etymology, 348-349, 421; à la Schönberg, 352; a list of, for the home cuisine, 352; apple, 368; à la Richelieu, 381 Saucier (the), 346 Sauerkraut, 371; when invented, 150; (French), not to be commended, 223 Sausages, the German the master-maker of, 152, 423; German species and varieties of, 163-166 Savarin, referred to, 75, 113, 114, 225, 305, 351, 370, 434, 443; denounced by M. de Courchamps, 158; as a gastronomer, 181, 206; his discourtesy to La Reynière, 195; poem of, 197; quoted, 300-302, 383, 395, 411. _Vide_ also "Physiologie du Goût (La)" Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, 309 Seasonings, used by the ancients, 28-30; used by the English, 83, 108; importance of, 446 Seneca, quoted, 5, 31, 32, 41, 46; referred to, 40, 44 Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, 175, 200 Shakespeare, quoted, 246, 441 Shelley, referred to, 234 Shooting jaunt, a, 375 _et seq._ Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," 291 Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67 Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182 Smith (Rev. Sydney), his _mot_ on pâté de foie gras, 158; gastronomic anecdote of, 249; his _mot_ on the pheasant, 286; his poem on roast mutton, 290; on fanatics, 294; his poem on salad, 412 Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445 Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411 Société des Mereredis, 118, 129, 130 Solomon, his table, 11 Sora, or rail (the), 360 Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37 Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150; aux choux, 224; croûte-au-pot, 224, 275; Julienne, 281; first mention of, 281 "Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62 Soups, German, 167 Southey, referred to, 232 Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210 Spartan black broth, 13 Spätzle, 167 Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126 Speisekarte, a typical, 154