The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Glancing for a moment across the Mediterranean, from Italy to Spain,
we find record of but one Spanish cook-book of any note during the
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries--that of Ruberto de Nola (Toledo,
1525). While Spanish cookery is far from meriting a place among the
fine arts, one must yet thank Spain for at least two things--the
dulcet Spanish onion and the poignant Spanish omelette--as one should
be grateful to Mexico for the tamale and to Russia for its caviare.
But the Spaniard boils his partridge (perdrix à l'Espagnol), as the
Hollander boils his chicken, with rice or vermicelli. The Spanish
"olla podrida"--the Alhambra of the national cuisine, wherein garlic,
onion, and red peppers are by no means forgotten--is well known to all
travellers beyond the Pyrenees; but, on account of the many native
ingredients it contains, it is difficult to be obtained in perfection
outside its original country. Its best form is the _olla en grande_,
which requires two pots to brew it in--the rich _olla_ that Don
Quixote says is eaten only by canons and presidents of colleges. With
virgin oil and a pianissimo touch, so far as the garlic is concerned,
the aristocratic _guisado_ is both an excellent and accommodating dish,
inasmuch as a fowl, pheasant, rabbit, or hare may serve as its base;
and for those who wish to try a dish with a Spanish name, prepared
somewhat on the order of the French civet of hare, the recipe may be
given: "Dress and prepare a fowl, pheasant, rabbit, or hare--whichever
is most easily obtainable--taking care to preserve the liver, giblets,
and blood. Cut it up in pieces and dry, without washing, on a cloth.
Brown a few slices of onion in a gill of boiling fat, turn them with
the pieces of meat into an earthenware pan, add a seasoning of herbs,
garlic, onions, a few chillies, salt and pepper, put in also a few
slices of bacon, and pour over all sufficient red wine and rich stock
in equal proportions to moisten. Place the pan over the fire and bring
the liquor slowly to the boiling-point, skim and stir frequently, and
let it simmer until the meat is quite tender. About half an hour before
serving, put in the liver, giblets, and blood. When ready, turn the
whole into a hot dish and serve quickly."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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