The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
1 d'un sauté de filets de turbot à l'homme de confiance, ci-devant
maître-d'hôtel.
1 d'anguilles à la tartare.
1 de concombres farcis à la moelle.
1 vol-au-vent de blanc de volaille à la Béchamel.
1 d'un ci-devant St. Pierre sauce aux câpres.
1 de filets de perdrix en anneaux.
Les Deux Plats de Rôt:
1 de goujons du département.
1 d'une carpe au court-bouillon.
Les Six Entremets:
1 d'œufs à la neige.
1 betteraves blanches sautés au jambon.
1 d'une gelée au vin de Madère.
1 de beignets de crême à la fleur d'oranger.
1 de lentilles à la ci-devant reine à la crême au blond de veau.
1 de culs d'artichauts à la ravigote.
1 salade céleri en rémoulade.
Beneath the bill of fare were these remarks, signed "Barras":
"There is too much fish. Leave out the gudgeons; the rest is
all right. Do not forget to place cushions on the chairs of
the _citoyennes_ Tallien, Talma, Beauharnais, Hainguerlot, and
Mirande. And for five o'clock precisely. Have the ices sent
from Veloni's; I don't want any others."
The first restaurant is generally said to have been established in
Paris about the middle of the eighteenth century (1765) by a cook
named Boulanger, in the rue des Poulies, with this device to herald
its purpose: _Venite omnes qui stomacho laboratis, et ego restaurato
vos_--"Come all ye that labour with the stomach, and I will restore
you." Grimod de la Reynière, however, mentions a certain Champ d'Oiseau
as the first of his calling, his establishment being in the rue des
Poulies and dating from 1770. The Marquis de Cussy, in turn, who is
also a good authority, has credited the signboard of the first Parisian
restaurant to a man named Lamy.
The motto and signboard were a conspicuous part of the olden tavern,
restaurant, and inn, as well as other shops devoted to retail trade,
and one views with regret, both on the Continent and in Great Britain,
the increasing disappearance of this picturesque feature. At one time
the signboard was obligatory on every landlord and vender of wines
and liquors, and scarce a century ago few public places that provided
for the entertainment of man and beast were without their illuminated
indices.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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