The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Most famous among culinary treatises of the eighteenth century is that
of Mrs. Glasse, first printed in 1747, and republished as late as
1803.[18] For a long period this was the _vade mecum_ of the kitchen,
and was fondled as fervently by housewives as was ever Addison by the
literarian, or Herbert by the pietist. From the original thin folio
it gradually broadened through numerous editions into a thick octavo.
The authorship of the work is in doubt, it having been variously
attributed to Dr. Hill and Dr. Hunter, London physicians, and Mrs.
Hannah Glasse of Southampton Row, Bloomsbury, habit-maker to the royal
family. Careful perusal, nevertheless, would indicate a feminine
instead of a masculine hand. The first edition of 1747 is said to be
almost as rare as the first folio of Shakespeare, being quoted, "in the
original sheep binding with rough leaves in a red morocco case," as
high as £31 10_s._ in a recent catalogue of a London bookseller.
It is stated in the preface that the work has not been written in the
"high-polite style," and that the ends the manual was intended for were
to "improve the servants and save the ladies a great deal of trouble."
The book owes its reputation, no doubt, more to the remark erroneously
credited to the author--"First catch your hare"--than to any other
cause. Certainly its recipes have little to recommend it. Mace, cloves,
nutmeg, and similar spices--ingredients that require the nicest
discrimination in their employment--are still prescribed in cyclopean
quantities, and under her régime cookery continued to remain much in
the condition described by Goldsmith:
"For palates grown callous almost to disease,
Who peppers the highest is surest to please."
Many of the old dishes, with others slightly modified, find place
in her pages, together with new dishes of singular titles: as, for
instance, "Bombarded Veal," "How to fricassee Skirrets," "to prepare
an Oxford John," "to make a Cheese-Curd Florendine," "to stew Beef
Gobbets," "to make a Pellaw the Indian way," "to make a Frangas
Incopades," "to French a Hind-Saddle of Mutton," "to make a Hedge-Hog,"
and "an Hottentot Pie," "to make an excellent Sack-Posset," etc. But
the recipes will speak best for themselves, like the following for
making "A Good Brown Gravy":
"Take a half a pint of small beer, or ale that is not bitter,
and half a pint of water, an onion cut small, a little bit
of lemon-peel cut small, three cloves, a blade of mace, some
whole pepper, a spoonful of walnut pickle, a spoonful of
catchup, and an anchovy; first put a piece of butter into a
saucepan, as big as a hen's egg, when it is melted shake in a
little flour, and let it be a little brown; then by degrees
stir in the above ingredients, and let it boil a quarter of an
hour, then strain it, and it is fit for fish or roots."
The directions for "A Liver-Pudding boiled" call for additional skill
and thorough familiarity with the art of the _charcutier_:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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