The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
This volume is valuable chiefly for the great variety of its menus--the
joint production of the author and the presiding genius of the
Rocher de Cancale when Parisian cookery had attained its greatest
distinction. The menus, each of which is commented upon at length,
are remarkable for their elaborateness and diversity, and illustrate
the great inventive resources of the period. Any one of those that
are designed for sixty covers would seem sufficient, with judicious
selection and by the substitution of a few dishes, according to the
season, to serve throughout the year. The last division of the volume,
relating to table usages, is covered in the "Almanach," as is also some
of the matter of the first division.
It is in the "Manuel" that we find the gifted author in his most
serious mood and most impressed with his responsibilities. To guide
the capricious stomachs of a great capital in the right way, to
instruct unerringly in the _grand art du savoir vivre_, to give a new
impetus to a refinement that the Jacobins and the Directory had well
nigh relegated to oblivion, was a task that might not be entered upon
lightly or undertaken without a grave sense of its importance.
The bills of fare are veritable morsels to turn over on the tongue. For
if, as La Fontaine avers, _le changement de mets réjouit l'homme_--how
important that man's daily change be an appetising one! And yet one
may well rejoice that he lives in an age when a good dinner may be
composed of a simple soup, a perfectly cooked fish, an entrée, a bird,
and a salad, with a good wine served at its proper temperature. Cookery
has changed with time, and the "manual" of a host of to-day differs as
much as does his costume from that of a century ago. This is not saying
that on a stimulating winter's day it were not worth a walk of many
a league to dine where the menu had been superintended by the author
of the "Manuel" and executed by the Rocher--if that were possible at
present.
Alexandre-Balthazar-Laurent Grimod de la Reynière was born in Paris,
November 20, 1758. His early life was an adventurous one, and
after first identifying himself with belles-lettres he studied and
practised law, besides engaging in various artistic, literary, and
mercantile pursuits. In his thirty-ninth year he became enamoured of
an actress--Mlle. Mézeray--to which circumstance the world is largely
indebted for the "Almanach" and the "Manuel des Amphitryons." On
declaring his passion with all the fervour of a highly impressionable
nature, only to meet with a repulse, he determined to look to
gastronomy for consolation, a resolve he at once expressed in poetic
form under the title "My Abnegation," the poem being addressed to "A
Celebrated Actress" and published in a dramatic journal of which he was
the editor. A stanza may be cited:
"De vrais amis, un doux asile,
Des dîners fins et délicats:
Voilà pour mon âme tranquille,
Qui vaut mieux que des _hélas_!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account