The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The result of the author's conviction was a letter to the injured
party, the latter's prompt appearance at the office of the offender,
a written apology by the culprit, and a promise to the editor of the
"Almanach" that he would atone for his crime by producing a pâté whose
authenticity could not be questioned,--"which still remains for him to
do," adds the editor, no doubt with a sigh of disappointment. In view
of these denunciations, one may readily understand that the products
submitted to the jury must have been, almost without exception, of
a very high order of merit. With such a rigid arbiter, few would
care to incur his censure or render themselves subject to his lash.
The frequent references to the venders, therefore, served a treble
purpose--that of stimulating the art of cookery, exposing knavery, and
sumptuously regaling the table of the tribunal.
There is this besides to be said in extenuation of the frequent
references to the _pâtissiers_ and _rôtisseurs_--that, being
specialists, they were more likely to advance an art than the average
person, however familiar with the principles of cookery, who was not in
possession of the mechanical accessories of the professional, or who
was not accustomed daily to turn his hand to practical account.
To become a member of the jury, a unanimity of votes was necessary,
rank or social status being a secondary consideration to gastronomic
accomplishments and brilliancy of appetite and mind. Women were not
excluded, and, strange to relate, among these was Mlle. Mézeray, a
striking proof that time can cool the warmest love to friendship. But
flounces and laces were allowed no voice in the solemn deliberations
of the tribunal. It might be pleasant to see a pretty gourmande
under arms, and have her join in the _coup du milieu_ which was
always obligatory, but how might petticoats decide upon the fate
of a _suprême_ or a truffled pâté! "Women," says La Reynière, "who
sometimes assist at the séances, have no deliberative voice--one can
readily understand the reason." With a palate vitiated by sweets, her
discernment must prove unreliable, and there would always be the danger
of her prejudicing a susceptible member through her allurements and
coquetries.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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