The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"All things considered, I will keep my turkey to eat with my
friends and with the person who was kind enough to lend me his
pen; for as a stranger and a simple merchant, I do not pride
myself on writing, but on honestly conducting my business.
Besides, have no fears, we will drink to your health and to
the preservation of one of the most useful men of the state."
The fine irony throughout the letter will assuredly commend itself to
the reader, as it undoubtedly nettled the editor. The reference to
the truffled turkey--and this was to have been a _dinde truffée_--was
notably the stroke of a master, artfully designed to hit the recipient
in a tender spot, an under-thrust that could not have failed to tell.
But however great the editor's disappointment,--for one remembers his
appetising essay, "Des Dindes Braisées," wherein he specifies that the
turkey should be well perfumed with truffles,--he was more than equal
to the occasion by retaliating that the lawyer could hardly proceed
as far as the pâté if it still remained in the shop of M. Grec, and
had been left to itself; for it had already begun to march of its own
accord. The writer's decision to keep the turkey is referred to as in
excellent taste withal, in comparison with the fate of the pâté.
Nor was an exposé of a guest who had served a large and inferior pâté
at a rural outing, furnished by a vulgar artist--claiming it as one of
the incomparable productions of a celebrated maker--less merited and
severe. The pâté was pompously announced as coming from the fragrant
ovens of a certain M. Le Sage.
"At the mention of this revered name" [says the editor], "the
attention of all the guests was directed to the piece, the
opening of which was eagerly awaited.
"This pâté was at first sight very inviting, but no sooner
was the crust removed than we perceived from the enormous void
that it could not have been made by M. Le Sage, whose pâtés
are always well filled, and are garnished in addition with a
blond of veal that renders them easily distinguishable.
"The one in question, which was presented as a pâté of ham of
Bayonne, offered merely an indigestible mixture of ordinary
ham, dried and spoiled, interspersed with chunks of tough
veal; the crust corresponded to the interior, and the stuffing
to the whole.
"We indignantly protested that such a pâté could not emanate
from the manufactory of M. Le Sage; but the donor insisting
stoutly that he had himself purchased it from him, he was
believed, in spite of the fact that he was a man of the law.
"We had our doubts, notwithstanding; for it is less rare to
find a lying knave than a detestable pâté emanating from
M. Le Sage, who, through the assertion made, found himself
dishonoured in the estimation of thirty people."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account