The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
While no doubt the author understood the theory of the cuisine, we have
no reason to suppose that, like Dumas, he was a thoroughly practical
cook, or took pleasure in surprising his friends with some appetising
dish of his own preparation. It was his province to criticise the
productions of others, and to do this it was unnecessary to assume
the functions of a chef. The wine-taster who is most competent to
judge of the merits of a vintage does not need to be a viniculturist,
nor does the gastronomer necessarily require to be a practical cook.
In many branches of art the best teachers are frequently the poorest
practitioners. The most able critic of painting may never have held a
brush, and the maestro capable of evolving a Mario may often be lacking
in voice. Though a master of but a single instrument, the leader of
a great orchestra understands and guides all the vehicles of sound
under his command--from the plectrum of the harp and plaint of the
oboe to the diapason of viols and concord of horns--so intuitive is
his sense of harmonious accord. The virtuoso is such from his inherent
superiority--of sight, taste, touch, smell, or hearing, as the case may
be--aided by years of study and cultivation in his especial craft. The
epicure is he who, gifted with a hyper-susceptivity of taste and its
complementary sense, smell, as well as long familiarity with viands
and wines, may detect savours unappreciated by the ordinary palate,
and thus understandingly and authoritatively pronounce upon the merits
or demerits of a dish. "The 'Almanach,'" says the editor, "does not
profess to be a cook-book--its duty is to try to stimulate the appetite
of its readers; upon the artists of the kitchen devolves the duty of
satisfying it."
The home kitchen of the author, while not elaborate, was most carefully
looked after by a cordon-bleu. Its excellence is attested by Dumas, who
declares that one of the best dinners he ever had was when, in company
with Count d'Orsay, he dined impromptu with La Reynière a short time
previous to his death.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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