The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
In the sketch of the development of leather manufacture which has just
been given, it has been implied that its object is to convert the
putrescible animal skin into a material which is permanent, and not
readily subject to decay, while retaining sufficient softness or
flexibility for the purposes for which it is intended. As these range
from boot-soles to kid-gloves, there are wide divergences, not only in
the processes employed, but also in the materials used and in the
principles of their application.
The most important method of producing leather is by the use of
vegetable tanning materials, and this is perhaps the only one which is
really entitled to be called “tanning,” though the distinction is not
very strictly adhered to. It includes the whole range--from sole
leather, through strap, harness and dressing leather, to calf and goat
skins, and the various sumach tannages which yield morocco and its
imitations. All of these products but the first and the last undergo,
after tanning, the further processes of “currying,” of which the most
important operation consists in “stuffing” with oily and fatty matters,
both to increase the flexibility and to confer a certain amount of
resistance to water. Sumach-tanned skins are not strictly “curried” but
usually receive a certain amount of oil in the process of “finishing.”
Next in importance to the vegetable tannages are the “tawed” leathers
produced by the agency of alum and salt, including the “white leathers”
for belt laces and aprons, and calf- and glove-kid. A connecting link
between tanning and tawing is found in the “green leather,” “Dongola,”
and “combination” tannages, in which alum and salt are employed in
conjunction with vegetable tanning materials, and especially with
gambier.
Salts of several of the metals, and particularly those of aluminium,
iron, and chromium, have the power of converting skin into leather; and
processes in which salts of chromium are used have recently attained
very considerable commercial importance.
In the production of calf- and glove-kid, in addition to alum and salt,
albuminous and fatty matters, such as egg-yolk, olive oil and the gluten
of flour, play a considerable part, and are thus linked both to the
primitive methods in use by the Indians and Kalmucks, and to those by
which “crown” and “Helvetia” leather, and many other forms of belt- and
lace-leathers are now produced by treatment with fats and albumens.
From these again the step is a short one to the “chamois” and “buff”
leathers, and the German “_fettgar_” leathers, in which oils and fats
only are used; and these are probably again related chemically to
leather produced by the aid of formaldehyde and other aldehydes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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