The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
The mode of finishing which was formerly, at least, in vogue in
Lancashire and Cheshire may be taken as a type of the best work. (In the
present day, the various methods are so widely known that they have
ceased to be local, and are varied according to the quality and tannage
of the goods.) The butts, which in earlier times were largely
bark-tanned, are taken wet from the pits, and scoured on a rounded beam
or “horse” with stone and brush, till the bloom is completely removed,
and are then lightly oiled on the grain, half dried (“sammed”), laid in
pile to temper, and “struck out” with the “pin,” a two-handled tool of
triangular section shown in Fig. 29. The use of this tool has now been
largely superseded by Wilson’s striking machine Fig. 39, in which knives
or sleekers (or stones and brushes), held in jointed arms, are made to
work on the butt, which is extended over a slowly rotating cylinder. The
object of the pinning is not so much to remove bloom or dirt, which has
been previously effected by the scouring, as to smooth and flatten the
grain. After further drying, a second pinning is generally given, and
the goods are then twice rolled, first with a light weight, and somewhat
moist grain, and then more heavily with the grain nearly dry. This was
formerly accomplished by a sort of box or car, heavily loaded with
weights, supported on a smooth brass roller of about 5 inches diameter
and 9 inches long, and manipulated with a long wooden handle on a floor
of hard wood, or zinc plates. One type of the machines which have now
almost entirely replaced this primitive contrivance is shown in Fig. 40,
but is principally used for offal and common classes of goods. For
better work, traversing rollers, such as Wilson’s ingenious double bed
roller shown in Fig. 41, are to be preferred. After rolling, the goods
are dried pretty rapidly by the aid of moderate heat, and, after
polishing with a brush (hand, or machine, Fig. 42), are ready for sale.
It may be pointed out that although the tools are different, the process
is almost the same as that used for “_vache lissée_” in France and
Belgium, and closely resembles that of currying harness leather except
that the “stuffing” with fats and oil is omitted.
[Illustration: FIG. 40.--Offal Roller.]
In contrast with the rather elaborate method just described, we may
place the American finish of red hemlock sides, which are tanned
throughout with a material which yields no bloom. On these, the
scouring and “striking” is altogether omitted: the goods are completely
dried out from the pits, which is found to fix the dark-coloured liquor,
and result in better colour; they are then damped back, and tempered,
and heavily rolled under a rapidly moving pendulum roller, which
polishes at the same time that it smooths the leather. The saving of
cost by so simple a process is not inconsiderable.
[Illustration: FIG. 41.--Wilson’s Double-bed Butt Roller.]
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