The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
In the West of England, much heavy leather is still manufactured from
South American hides, which are tanned with a large proportion of
valonia; and which consequently are heavily bloomed. No attempt is made
to remove this bloom, which would too much lessen the weight and
firmness, but the goods, after a light oiling to preserve the colour,
are hung up and partially dried, and are then laid in pile to temper.
The grain side is now wet with soap and water, with which a little oil
is often mixed, and the bloom is “struck in” with the pin or machine; a
somewhat blunt pin being used, or a blunt tool in the striking machine;
which is held at such an angle as to smooth and compress the grain
without taking too much hold on it. After a little further drying, the
striking is generally repeated, the goods are washed over with water,
and rolled “on.” They are now coloured with a mixture of pigment
colour, generally containing a large proportion of whitening, or
sometimes of French chalk coloured with ochres, chrome-yellow and
orange, or whatever may suit the tint preferred by the tanner, or best
imitate the colour of a clean-scoured tannage, and usually mixed with
size and oil, or sometimes with oil and tan liquor. This mixture is well
rubbed in, and smoothed over with a cloth, and then polished by
brushing, when the goods are “rolled off,” rapidly dried, and again
brushed. If the work has been well done, it is not easy to distinguish
from clean scouring, and is much cheaper.
[Illustration: FIG. 42.--Brushing Machine.]
A method intermediate between this and the first described, and which
was formerly much used in London, was to proceed as above, but using
more water and holding the pin in the first striking so as to scour out
as much bloom as possible, and assisting this by the free use of water
and the brush. Instead of using an opaque pigment-colour, the goods were
generally coloured either between striking and the first rolling, or
between the two rollings, with a transparent colour, such as dissolved
annatto, or a mixture of aniline dyes, so as to conceal the traces of
bloom, and to render slight damages to the grain less conspicuous.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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