The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
On the other hand, in the “green leathers” (so-called from their
greenish-yellow colour, and largely made in the West Riding of
Yorkshire), the hides usually receive a light gambier tannage, extending
over a week or so in weak gambier liquors in handlers, and are then
“cured” by handling in hot and strong solution of salt and alum, in
which they are finally left all night, and then dried rapidly without
washing out the alum, much of which consequently crystallises on the
surface. This is slicked off, and the leather damped back, and heavily
stuffed with sod-oil. If, however, the combination-tannage is properly
carried out, it will stand liberal washing without losing the necessary
alum, and of course a tougher and more satisfactory, though somewhat
lighter weighing leather results. It is in many cases a better plan to
combine the two tannages in one bath, mixing the alum and salt with the
gambier, and handling or paddling the goods in the mixture. This is the
plan usually adopted for Dongola leather, in the United States. For
skins which are to be glazed, it is important that the _surface_ should
be tanned with the vegetable material, and the goods are therefore
worked into gambier liquors, to which the salt and alum are only added
after the tannage has made some little progress; while for dull Dongola,
intended rather to imitate calf-kid, it is best for the alum and salt
tannage to begin first. For goat-skins for glazed Dongola kid, about 4
lb. of block gambier, ¹⁄₂ lb. of alum, and ¹⁄₄ lb. of salt are used per
dozen, and the tannage occupies in all about twenty-four hours.
After the skins are tanned, they are thoroughly washed out with tepid
water, to remove loose alum and gambier, and are then ready for
fat-liquoring. As in the case of chrome leather, it is of great
importance that this washing should be done thoroughly, as any remaining
alum which diffuses into the fat-liquor, will cause it to curdle. If the
washing is thorough, the more neutral the fat-liquor and the better; but
a somewhat alkaline soap-solution is less liable to curdle. The original
fat-liquor used by Mr. Kent was the alkaline liquor which had been used
in washing the surplus oil from chamois leather (see p. 380), but now
soap- and oil-solutions are generally made specially for the purpose.
Most of the remarks in the chapter on chrome tannages are applicable in
this case, but probably fat-liquoring is somewhat easier than in the
case of chrome. Mixtures of either soft soap or curd soap with cod, sod,
and olive oil are frequently employed. Sesame oil also seems well
adapted for the purpose. The better these are emulsified, and the more
satisfactory is the result; a cylinder of zinc or copper fitted with a
plunger, something like that of a “Lightning Egg Beater,” but covered
with perforated zinc, or wire gauze, does very good service as an
emulsifier on a small scale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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