The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
Another method is to melt the soap with just sufficient water to make it
pasty, and to incorporate the oil thoroughly with the mass, which is
afterwards dissolved in hot water. Oils are the most easily emulsified
when they are somewhat acid. For this reason rancid olive oils are often
used for the Turkey-red process, but a similar effect can be obtained by
adding a small quantity of candlemaker’s oleic acid to the oil before
mixing. The addition of sulphated castor oil (Turkey-red oil) also helps
emulsification, and is in itself a very good softening agent. One of the
commonest mistakes in fat-liquoring is the employment of too strong an
emulsion--even so small a quantity as ¹⁄₂ per cent. of soap, and half
that quantity of oil, reckoned on the wet weight of the well-drained
leather, will produce a very notable softening effect. Of course, for
dull finishes, much larger proportions may be used. Not only
combination-tannages, but those entirely vegetable, can be fat-liquored
with excellent effect, and the process is now largely used for coloured
calf, and other leathers, which are required soft and nourished, but
without any appearance of greasiness. Leathers absorb the fat-liquor
most readily if put into it in a sammed or partially dried condition,
but even if quite wet, they soon take up the whole of the oil and soap
on drumming, leaving only a little clear water in the drum. Goods may
be blacked while still wet with fat-liquor, but should generally (except
in the case of chrome leathers) be dried out before dyeing, as this
fixes the oil and soap in the fibres.
Many coloured leathers are now made by a process which may be considered
a combination of the Dongola process itself with the ordinary process of
vegetable tanning, the goods being coloured and partially tanned as if
for a vegetable tannage, and then finished in Dongola liquors with alum,
salt and gambier. Very good leathers are made in this way in the United
States, with a tannage begun in suspension in hemlock bark liquors.
Imitations of Dongola leather are made by treating East India sheep or
goat with alum liquors, and afterwards fat-liquoring (if necessary)[128]
and finishing like genuine Dongola leather. The treatment is most
effective, if a portion of the original tan be removed by washing with
warm water, with a little borax, ammonia, or even soda, and the goods
then alumed with a “neutralised” or basic alum solution such as that
described on p. 187. Goods treated with a basic chrome-liquor, like that
used for the one-bath chrome process, p. 212, are almost converted into
chrome-tanned goods, and will even stand some degree of boiling. The use
of a liquor made like the Martin-Dennis liquor, by dissolving chromic
oxide in hydrochloric acid, was the subject of an American patent[129]
which in this country is owned by Wichellow and Tebbutt, but which
expires in 1903.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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