The Principles of Leather ManufactureProcter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
History
The Principles of Leather Manufacture
Procter, H. R. (Henry Richardson)
Leather
The structure of the corium or true skin is quite different from that of
the epidermis which has just been described, as it is principally
composed of interlacing bundles of white fibres, of the kind known as
“connective tissue” (see Fig. 14); these are composed of fibrils of
extreme fineness, cemented together by a substance somewhat more soluble
than the fibres themselves. The fibres are not themselves living cells,
but are apparently produced by narrow spindle-shaped cells lying against
them. The felted fibre-bundles are more loosely interwoven in the middle
portion of the skin, but become compacter again near the flesh. In the
case of sheep-skins this is especially marked, the middle part being
full of fat-cells and very loose. Any ill treatment of the pelt during
the wet-work is liable to still further loosen this middle layer so that
grain and flesh may sometimes be torn apart. The flesh-splits of
sheep-skins must have this loose fatty layer frized off before
chamoising, and American “waxed fleshes” from ox-hides are levelled by
splitting away this portion, and finished on the flesh. The outermost
layer, just beneath the epidermis, is exceedingly close and compact, the
fibre-bundles that run into it being separated into their elementary
fibrils, which are so interlaced that they can scarcely be recognised.
This is the _pars papillaris_, and forms the lighter-coloured layer,
called (together with its very fine outer coating) the “grain” of
leather. It is in this part that the fat-glands are embedded, while the
hair-roots and sweat-glands pass through it into the looser tissue
beneath. It receives its name from the small projections or _papillæ_,
with which its outer surface is studded, and which form the
characteristic grain of the various kinds of skin.[20] (See Fig. 9 and
Plate I.)
[20] It will be noted that the word “grain” is used by the tanner in
at least three different senses, which are productive of much
confusion. The extremely thin hyaline layer forms a natural glaze to
the skin, and might well be spoken of as such; the form and
arrangement of the _papillæ_ and hair-pores might be called the
“pattern” of the grain, leaving the use of the word “grain” itself
restricted to the _pars papillaris_.
[Illustration: FIG. 15.--Fat-cells in connective tissue. _a_,
fat-globule; _p_, protoplasm; _n_, nucleus; _m_, cell-wall. (Ranvier.)]
The study of the structure of the grain, and especially of the
arrangement of the hair-pores is very important, as it is usually the
readiest means of identifying the kind of skin of which a leather is
made, which in finished skins with artificially printed grain is often
very difficult. (Plate II.) The examination is facilitated by wetting
and stretching the skin, and by the use of a good lens, or a low power
of the microscope.[21]
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