The Private Life of the RomansJohnston, Harold Whetstone
History
The Private Life of the Romans
Johnston, Harold Whetstone
Rome -- Social life and customs
§257. Dress of Women.--It has been remarked already (§234) that the
dress of men and women differed less in ancient than in modern times,
and we shall find that in the classical period at least the principal
articles worn were practically the same, however much they differed in
name and probably in the fineness of their materials. At this period
the dress of the matron consisted in general of three articles: the
_tunica interior_, the _tunica exterior_ or _stola_, and the _palla_.
Beneath the _tunica interior_ there was nothing like the modern
corset-waist or corset, intended to modify the figure, but a band of
soft leather (_mamillāre_) was sometimes passed around the body under
the breasts for a support (Fig. 96), and the _subligāculum_ (§235) was
also worn by women.
[Illustration: FIGURE 97. THE STROPHIUM]
§258. The Tunica Interior.--The _tunica interior_ did not differ much
in material or shape from the tunic for men already described (§236).
It fitted the figure more closely perhaps than the man's, was
sometimes supplied with sleeves, and as it reached only to the knee
did not require a belt to keep it from interfering with the free use
of the limbs. A soft sash-like band of leather (_strophium_), however,
was sometimes worn over it, close under the breasts, but merely to
support them, and in this case we may suppose that the _mamillāre_ was
discarded. For this sash (Fig. 97) the more general terms _zōna_ and
_cingulum_ are sometimes used. This tunic was not usually worn alone,
even in the house, except by young girls.
§259. The Stola.--Over the _tunica interior_ was worn the _tunica
exterior_, or _stola_, the distinctive dress of the Roman matron
(§91). It differed in several respects from the tunic worn as a
house-dress by men. It was open at both sides above the waist and
fastened on the shoulders by brooches. It was much longer, reaching to
the feet when ungirded and having in addition a wide border or flounce
(_īnstita_) sewed to the lower hem. There was also a border around the
neck, which seems to have been usually of purple. The _stola_ was
sleeveless if the _tunica interior_ had sleeves, but if the tunic
itself was sleeveless the _stola_ had them, so that the arm was always
protected. These sleeves, however, whether in tunic or _stola_, were
open on the front of the upper arm and only loosely clasped with
brooches or buttons, often of great beauty and value.
[Illustration: FIGURE 98. THE ZONA]
[Illustration: FIGURE 99. STATUE OF THE YOUNGER FAUSTINA]
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