The Private Life of the RomansJohnston, Harold Whetstone
History
The Private Life of the Romans
Johnston, Harold Whetstone
Rome -- Social life and customs
§260. Owing to its great length the _stola_ was always worn with a
girdle (_zōna_) above the hips (Fig. 98), and through it the _stola_
itself was pulled until the lower edge of the _īnstita_ barely cleared
the floor. This gave the fullness about the waist seen in the statue
of Faustina (Fig. 99), in which the cut of the sleeves can also be
seen. The _zōna_ was usually entirely hidden by the overhanging folds.
The _stola_ was the distinctive dress of the matron, as has been said,
and it is probable that the _īnstita_ was its distinguishing feature;
that is, the _tunica exterior_ of the unmarried woman had no flounce
or border, though it probably reached to the floor.
[Illustration: FIGURE 100. STATUE FROM HERCULANEUM]
[Illustration: FIGURE 101. STATUE OF LIVIA]
§261. The Palla.--The _palla_ was a shawl-like wrap for use out of
doors. It was a rectangular piece of woolen goods, as simple as
possible in its form, but worn in the most diverse fashions in
different times. In the classical period it seems to have been wrapped
around the figure, much as the toga was. One-third was thrown over the
left shoulder from behind and allowed to fall to the feet. The rest
was carried around the back and brought forward either over or under
the right arm at the pleasure of the wearer. The end was then thrown
back over the left shoulder after the style of the toga, as in the
marble statue from Herculaneum shown in Fig. 100, or allowed to hang
loosely over the left arm, as in the statue of Livia (Fig. 101). It
was possible also to pull the _palla_ up over the head, and this
method of using it is supposed by some scholars to be shown in the
statue of Livia, while others see in the covering of the head some
sort of a veil.
§262. Shoes and Slippers.--What has been said of the footgear of men
(§§250, 251) applies also to that of women. Slippers (_soleae_) were
worn in the house, differing from those of men only in being
embellished as much as possible, sometimes even with pearls. An idea
of their appearance may be had from the statue of Faustina (§259).
Shoes (_calceī_) were insisted upon for out-door use, and differed
from those of men, as they chiefly differ from them now, in being made
of finer and softer leather. They were often white, or gilded, or of
bright colors, and those intended for winter wear had sometimes cork
soles.
[Illustration: FIGURE 102. STYLES OF DRESSING THE HAIR]
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