The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein — John Shaqi
The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
History
The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
The next morning, as soon as our rather frugal meal of dry meat, coffee,
and fried plantains was over, we crossed the Patoyacu and began the
ascent of a monstrous mountain, the top of which we reached at about two
o'clock in the afternoon. The rest of the day was spent in a constant
succession of long, steep, painful ascents to the tops of the mountains,
and immediately afterwards long, steep, painful descents to the bottoms,
where, crossing some insignificant _quebrada_[30] we would sit and rest
a few minutes before starting on the next climb. While taking lunch at
one of these streams, Perkins noticed some peculiar-looking rocks,
which, upon examination, seemed to indicate the existence of a good
quality of marble. We took along several specimens for further
examination.
The scenery is magnificent, of a wild, savage splendour, rarely seen
elsewhere than in the Andes. The high, heavily wooded mountains, rising
almost perpendicularly to the clouds, are separated from each other by
foaming, plunging _quebradas_, which, dashing themselves into spray
against the immense boulders that form their beds, leap over the
numerous precipices in their courses with a deep, resounding roar like
distant thunder.
We endeavoured to reach a _rancho_[31] called Papagallos, but, when
darkness overtook us, we were still far from it, according to our
Indians, so we hastily made a rough _rancho_ and, after about an hour
and a half, succeeded in igniting a fire, for it had rained during the
afternoon and everything was completely soaked. The fire, at last
successfully started, was just beginning to flicker up and give out a
little heat, when suddenly another heavy rain set in and, within fifteen
minutes, our hard-won fire was out and we and all our belongings were
wet through. As the rain continued steadily until morning and the cold
all this time was intense, we did not pass a very enjoyable night.
The next day was only a tiresome repetition of the one already
described--up and down all day. How many miles we made I do not know,
but I can state that, whatever their number, they were mostly on end. At
9 a.m. we passed Papagallos and at about 2 p.m. we commenced a long,
steep descent of nearly 2,000 metres, the bottom of which we reached at
about half-past four. Here we found the two small _ranchos_, known as
Cascabel, and stopped for the night. These two _ranchos_ were situated
upon the left bank of the River Campucana, a good-sized stream formed by
the various _quebradas_ we had crossed. We had now passed the last of
the mountains, for from this place to Puerto Guineo, the port of
embarkation, it is practically level. We had at last crossed the Andes,
and were now upon the great Atlantic Slope.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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