The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
History
The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
Lunching in the canoe at about eleven o'clock, we steadily continued our
descent. At about two I thought I would like to try my hand at being
_popero_, so Perkins accordingly gave me a few hints on it and then
retired under the _pamacari_ to enjoy a short nap. I got along
first-rate for an hour or so and was beginning to think myself almost
the equal of a professional Indian _boga_, when, borne along at a
tremendous rate by the rushing current, we ran into a log that stuck
some six feet out of the water at an angle of about thirty degrees. The
log was too high to strike the bow, and passed over it; it reached the
_pamacari_, got caught fast in it, the canoe turned broadside, listed to
port, water poured over the gunwale in torrents, and I commenced to say
my prayers. The next moment the _pamacari_ snapped, the canoe veered
around bow foremost again, the log, with the released _pamacari_ still
attached to it, raked the rear part of our craft, knocked me overboard,
and the canoe was free. I hastily grasped the end of the log and hung to
it like a tick to a nigger's shin, until Perkins struggled to his feet
and threw me a rope, for no mortal man could have come up with the canoe
in the teeth of the current. I grabbed the rope, and Perkins, after some
delay, finally yanked me aboard, none the worse for my misadventure
except a large bruise on my forehead. I did not play the rôle of
_popero_ again for some time.
At about five o'clock we stopped for the day at a large _playa_; I may
say, however, that we spent some time in sounding the vicinity of the
place where we tied the canoe, in order not to get stranded again.
Taking a little walk to explore our neighbourhood, we stumbled upon
several turtle trails, and, following them up, found some three large
nests. Digging a little with our _machetes_ at one of them, we unearthed
about eighty eggs, which we conveyed to the canoe; some of these eggs we
had for dinner in the shape of an omelette.
The next morning we again set out on our journey. As our _danta_ was now
getting spoiled, I kept an eagle eye on the trees along the bank in
hopes of killing something, and shot at several monkeys, but with
apparently no effect. Finally I perceived a large turkey, and as soon as
we got within range drew a bead on him and fired. The bird fell to the
ground, we drew up, I got out and found the dead body of a buzzard or
_gallinazo_.
This repugnant bird, also known as the _urubú_ in Brazil, is about the
size of the wild turkey, which it somewhat resembles at a distance. Its
plumage, however, is a sort of dingy black, and its fairly large beak is
of the same colour. They always emit an insufferable, carrion smell, and
are the universal scavengers of the tropics. Indeed, in Colombia the
killing of a _gallinazo_ is punishable by a heavy fine. Of these birds
the best known species are the Cathartes foetens, the C. aura, and the
C. jata.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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