The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
History
The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
The white _gallinazo_ is not so common, and is popularly supposed to be
the king of the flock. While on the Cauca Railway I saw one feeding on a
dead mule, while all the common _urubús_ stood on one side, waiting
until he had had enough. The Indians (as well as many of the "whites")
are very superstitious in regard to this bird, and consider its
appearance as a good omen.
Having shot nothing eatable, we reached a promising-looking _playa_ at
two o'clock and disembarked in search of some more turtle-eggs. We were
busily engaged in excavating a nest, when Perkins saw a solitary canoe
slowly making its way up-stream. Approaching the bank, we hailed the
strangers, and they began to steer in our direction; as they came nearer
we saw that they were all Indians, except one, who was a well-dressed,
elderly white man. It was then that we became conscious of our clothes,
or rather of our lack of them, for I was dressed only in a torn shirt,
an equally torn pair of trousers, and a wide Stetson hat, while Perkins
was clad only in a long shirt and his flowing beard.
Mastering our embarrassment, we introduced ourselves to the old man, who
proved to be none other than Don Rogerio Becerra, the gentleman who had
escorted the exiles down to the Caraparaná, from whence he was now
returning to Mocoa. He seemed to be a very pleasant and agreeable man,
and we held quite a conversation with him, in the course of which he
informed us that the _Corregidor_, Don Gabriel Martínez, to whom Jurado
had given us a letter, was on his way up also with his police force, and
that we might expect to meet him in a couple of days. After a little
more conversation he presented us with a live _charapilla_, of which he
had several, and slowly resumed his long and tedious journey.
After unearthing the rest of the eggs, we, too, set out and continued
our trip without any further incidents until about half-past five, when
we stopped at a large _playa_. While I was engaged in cooking the dinner
here, Perkins went out for a prowl with the shot-gun and succeeded in
getting a large duck.
The following morning, December 22nd, we got an early start at six
o'clock and continued the trip without incident until ten o'clock, when,
owing to the stifling heat, we drew up to a beach and put up a new
_pamacari_-frame, over which we laid our mosquito-bars to make a little
shade. No sooner was this accomplished than the sun disappeared behind a
cloud, a strong wind arose, and it began to rain in torrents. This kept
up for some two hours, and, of course, we got soaked; at the end of
this time, however, the sun came out again as hot as ever, and in
another two hours we were dry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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