During the afternoon we stopped on a large _playa_ and dug up a quantity of turtle eggs. While engaged in this operation we observed a magnificent bird of a blackish colour, which we took to be the ibis. We endeavoured to drop him, but he was too wily for us, and we could not get within range. A little later I succeeded in killing a couple of wild ducks, which seemed to be very numerous in this vicinity. On the following morning we set out at about six o'clock, being awakened at about half-past five by a numerous army of gnats or _moscos_. These little pests, described in the first chapter as being very prevalent on the Cauca Railway, had not afflicted us since leaving Puerto Guineo, the point of embarkation. They now became very aggravating, and such was their ferocity and perseverance that we were finally compelled to don the gloves and veils we had had made in Pasto for the purpose. Owing to the suffocating heat, these articles were inconvenient to a degree, but as they were undoubtedly the lesser evil, we endeavoured to put up with them. At about 2 p.m. we reached Yubinete, the place where Martínez had been kidnapped. As soon as we reached the port a couple of _racionales_ came down and conducted us up along a winding path to the little split-palm hut, which was situated on a high knoll on the right bank, some two hundred metres from the river. The place seemed desolate and neglected, for rank weeds and large bushes arose on every side. The proprietor, it seemed, was absent, and the two _racionales_, who had been left in charge, took life very easy. Here we had lunch with them, which was a rather meagre affair, after which we sold them some of our remaining Indian trading-stuff in order to get it out of the way. During the course of this deal, which was enlivened by a considerable amount of haggling and _aguardiente_, we learned that nothing more had been heard of the unfortunate Martínez, and the opinion of the two _racionales_ was that he was being detained at El Encanto for some underhand purpose. Bidding _adios_ to the hospitable _racionales_, we resumed our descent at about 3.30, and continued it without incident until about six o'clock, when we stopped at a large _playa_ near where the river--or at least the arm that we were following--divided into three _brazos_. Here we saw several ducks, but they would not let us get within range. With the darkness the gnats disappeared, but great blood-sucking mosquitoes soon took their place; it was out of the frying-pan into the fire. After a night of torture we resumed our journey on the following morning, taking the left _brazo_, as the two _racionales_ had informed us that it was the quickest. The gnats now relieving the mosquitoes, we again put on the paraphernalia of the previous day, but found it unendurable, for the narrow _brazo_ was like an oven, being too wide to provide shade and too small for the breeze to enter.