The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians ThereinHardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
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The Putumayo, the Devil's Paradise: Travels in the Peruvian Amazon Region and an Account of the Atrocities Committed upon the Indians Therein
Hardenburg, W. E. (Walter Ernest)
Peru -- Description and travel; Peruvian Amazon Company; Putumayo River; Rubber industry and trade -- Peru
Had it not been for these little wretches we should have enjoyed the
passage through the _brazo_, for on either side--almost within arm's
length--towered up in magnificent confusion the luxuriant, impenetrable
vegetation of the Amazon Valley. The calm beauty of the scene was from
time to time enlivened by the numerous bands of gaily-coloured parrots
and parroquets that, with shrill, hoarse cries, would circle about in
the sky far above us. Again, we would perceive a group of monkeys
leaping from tree to tree with the agility and quickness peculiar to
them. At other times the silence would be broken by the splash of the
large fish, which, intent on securing some delectable insect for their
lunch, would leap out of the water in their eagerness.
At about two o'clock we emerged from the _brazo_ and again entered the
main channel, which along here averaged from one to two kilometres in
width. Here there was a little wind, which served to relieve us a
trifle, but, unfortunately, it did not last long, and the stifling heat
and the clouds of gnats soon resumed their sway.
A little later, while keeping along the right bank to get the benefit of
the current, we observed a band of the large _guariba_[91] monkeys
making their way along the bank. As we were in need of some meat, we
hastily disembarked and set out in pursuit of them. Perceiving an
especially large one, I let fly at him with the shot-gun; he fell, but,
striking a branch in his descent, caught it with his tail and hung there
head downwards. Finally, after shooting him six times more and spending
over half an hour throwing sticks at him, he condescended to fall, and
we took him in triumph to the canoe. We had a fine dish of monkey-steak
for dinner that night.
The _guaribas_ are the largest and most interesting of the numerous
species of monkeys that abound in the forests of the Putumayo. They
average two feet in height, have well-developed fingers, and a heavy
beard under the chin. Their long, prehensile tail is covered with hair
on top, but the under surface is bald and horny. They are generally of a
brownish colour, but this often varies, according to the age of the
individual. The _guaribas_ have powerful voices, and when they all get
together and begin howling, the din is deafening. They feed on fruits
and nuts, and the females carry their young on their backs like some
Indian women.
The next day we got another early start; the river was high, and the
current took us along rapidly. During the morning we shot at several
splendid-looking parrots, but they were too far off for our fire to be
effective. The gnats still hen-pecked us, though not so ferociously as
on the previous days, because we now got along faster. We had intended
digging some turtle eggs, but the river was so swollen that the greater
part of the _playas_ and islands were covered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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